Battery needs to be jumped - even though wiring and electrical system was replaced

three4rd · #1 10-02-2011, 06:22 PM

Hi,

For years I have had to always put the charger on my 129's battery for a few minutes (or longer depending on outside temperature) to get it started. I assumed that once the electrical components were replaced, which was just done recently - including the wire harness, points, coil, regulator, plug, battery, that I should no longer have to do that. Something still seems to be drawing it down if not used for a week or so. The only part of the electrical system that wasn't replaced was the ignition switch. Could that be accounting for a slow drain? My dealer, who replaced the wire harness, felt fairly confident that with everything that was done I would no longer have a problem. Any thoughts as to why I still need to use a charger? When I turn the key on, the needle moves towards the discharge side if the tractor sits for a week or so without being used.

Thanks,
Keith

jbrewer · #2 10-02-2011, 06:40 PM

Do you have a multimeter (even a Harbor Freight 2.99 special) ? If so I can walk you thru the process of determining if there's a drain on the battery. It only takes 2 min to test it.

John

three4rd · #3 10-02-2011, 07:10 PM

John.....sorry...no meter! Once charged and the tractor used, then I can turn the key and the needle stays right in the middle. It's just a pain to have to get the battery charger out every time. I figured I wouldn't need to do that anymore.

Matt G. · #4 10-02-2011, 07:21 PM

You need to get a multimeter...as John said, they're cheap, and make troubleshooting electrical problems much easier.

jbrewer · #5 10-02-2011, 07:43 PM

It's going to be hard to diagnose without a meter....

The ammeter will probably deflect to the left a little bit whether the battery is fully charged or not... it's indicating not the state of the battery, but the flow of current. With the key on, there's likely some drain that is normal without the engine running....charged battery or not. The only difference with a low battery, is that there may be less current available to flow (and deflect the meter) with the key in the same condition.

You might make sure the ground (-) terminal of the battery cable is secured to the frame at a CLEAN point... remove the bolt and sand or otherwise make sure that the connection to the frame is an electrically good one.

...and borrow a meter! :-)

John

jbrewer · #6 10-02-2011, 08:02 PM

...are you sure the switch is all the way to the left (off) before you remove the key? The manual indicates leaving the key in the on or run position will drain the battery.

ol'George · #7 10-02-2011, 09:37 PM

It is normal to get a discharge on the amp meter with the key on and the motor stopped if the ignition points are closed, but not if the points are open.
Charge the battery then remove one of the battery leads, come back in a week and hook it up, and see if it starts, if not you have a weak/dying battery.

scleve · #8 10-03-2011, 08:41 AM

We can't say it enough. If you are going to work on the electrical system you need a volt/ohm meter. Most any will work for 12 volt system It was said Habor Frieght is 2.99 and Lowes, Home Depot or Radio Shack has them for around 20.00. But without one a very simple problem will drive you crazy and could cost you alot of money by making a guess instead of knowing.

Jmsoucie · #9 10-03-2011, 09:43 PM

My 122 has the same problem, it never bothered me enough to fix it tho. I never really thought it was option to fix it until i read this thread.

Sugarmaker · #10 10-03-2011, 11:00 PM

Yea, Most, I mean none of my Cubs charge properly

Hoping to get the 147 up to snuff and charging after the rebuild).
I do have a multimeter so now you guys can teach me how to do some trouble shooting. Would be nice to have some how to instructions for rooting out those nasty electrical problems!
I did get enough info to check some of the switches as I installed them.
Regards,
Chris