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#1
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Oil, air and fuel filter change is obvious; however, what else would you recommend? Hydraulic filter? What else?
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#2
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Antifreeze, and make sure to use 15-40 oil
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Adam Current Workhorses: 1977 1650, Sleeve hitch, #2 tiller; 1985 782, QA 42A snowblower, 50'' deck, 42'' blade, Ags, IH Wheel weights; 197? 1250; 1976 1250, hydraulic lift, 44'' deck, 54'' blade (currently needing a engine) Current Projects: 1970 107, Sleeve hitch, 42'' deck, Tri Ribs, 8'' Brinley Plow Family owns over 30 tractors, 7 combines, 2 bulldozers, 2 mid size trucks, 1 semi, too many truck and scouts to count including parts, and 3 pulling tractors. All vintage IH. |
#3
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New trans fluid and filter. I would do a complete fuel system clean out with new hoses. Especially cleaning out the fuel tank. Check the hydro trunion and see if there is significant wear that needs to be fixed while the fender pan is off.
Here is link for service manual: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/pdf/772...0Ser%20Man.pdf
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#4
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Make sure you change both fuel filters. I would use a lubricity/anti-gel additive like Power Service as well.
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#5
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I was running 15-40 oil in everything. I'm thinking about going back to 30W as the manual says.
Take the tunnel cover off and check the drive line. Diesels are hard on them. Grab the drive shaft (it's best to have the engine turned off) and see if you can move it side to side or up and down. If you can or if the tractor has a lot of vibration at full throttle stop there. I would change it all out for about $150 and not have to worry about it again. I would also change the transmission fluid and filter. If you are replacing the fuel filters I would also replace the fuel lines. They are cheap at any auot parts store. That should be a good start and there will be plenty more to check.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#6
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Where is a good source for the filters?
Thanks! BTW: the drive shaft is new. |
#7
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I run Wix filters in everything. When you look the parts up on MTD's or PartsTree web site take the KB part number and cross it over to Wix, NAPA or something else. Do not use anything but IH HyTran oil in the rear.
![]() You may have a new drive shaft but there is a brass insert on the motor end, coupler on hydro pump input and 2 rag joints at each end of the shaft. If you run the engine WFO and don't have a lot of vibration on the tunnel cover you are probably okay.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#8
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Mike Ontario, Canada IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#10
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Mike Ontario, Canada IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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