How do I make sure my drive shaft is aligned?

[jimbob200521]

I've got a 1050 and after doing some work to her, I find that my drive shaft will not stop spinning when I press the clutch peddle. I've tried adjusting it until I'm blue in the face but to no avail. So after doing some digging online, I found that there is a drive shaft alignment tool made by Cub Cadet in the past (part #759-3426) but it's no longer available. So my question is for all the guys out there that do work on these machines, how do you make sure your drive shaft is properly aligned when you re-install the motor?

Thanks for any help.

[Sam Mac]

Just my 2 cents but my guess is that the later Cubs with clutches probably all have the same issue. The internal brake Cubs will stop the shaft from turn but the later Cubs do not. I'm guessing the clutch with even the slightest amount of drag would continue to spin the input shaft of the trans causing some grinding when you try to put it into gear. I have never had one so I am not sure just my guess looking at how they are designed.

[CADplans]

Tough question, I have had at least a half dozen disk brake - 3 speed manual shifts since 1980.



I have never seen enough drag to cause the driveshaft to continue to spin.

I have never used an alignment tool, or excess care in assembly.

My vote would be some form of mis-assembly of the clutch assembly.

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by CADplans

Tough question, I have had at least a half dozen disk brake - 3 speed manual shifts since 1980.



I have never seen enough drag to cause the driveshaft to continue to spin.

I have never used an alignment tool, or excess care in assembly.

My vote would be some form of mis-assembly of the clutch assembly.

Well that makes me feel a little better about my work hahaha

I do have a stupid question, though: can the clutch friction plate be put on backwards?

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Just my 2 cents but my guess is that the later Cubs with clutches probably all have the same issue. The internal brake Cubs will stop the shaft from turn but the later Cubs do not.

My 100 has the same issues and the anti rattle springs were hanging the clutch disc on the inner plate causing it to drag,removed two of them and all is well.


Sam,
The top shaft on the tranny will spin but the bottom one will not until it is put into gear.That is where the disc for the brake puck is located.

[Sam Mac]

Lew

Just looked at the cross section for an internal brake trans and you are right. Learned something new today. Thanks.

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by jimbob200521

I do have a stupid question, though: can the clutch friction plate be put on backwards?

It does not matter for that.
On the mounting flange on the motor is it new? There is a ball bushing in there and if it is bad will cause your shaft to turn.
#1 on the parts lookup.

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

It does not matter for that.
On the mounting flange on the motor is it new? There is a ball bushing in there and if it is bad will cause your shaft to turn.
#1 on the parts lookup.

No its not new but I remember looking at it when I had everything apart and it seemed alright at least it wasn't an issue before I replaced the throw out bearing). my next thought is the clutch studs are the original and have some pretty excessive grooves in them. My thought is the groves are so worn that when I push the clutch in, they are holding just enough pressure on the inside plate that it keeps the drive shaft spinning. I'm going to do an experiment tonite and loosen and turn them so the clutch isn't resting in those groves anymore and see if that helps. If so I'm going to order news studs. My reasoning behind this is if the tractors off and I push the clutch in, I almost have to wiggle the actual clutch disc to get it to break free and be loose enough so that the two plates aren't keeping pressure on (or at least the front plate). Had that thought at about 2am after not being able to sleep all night.

If that doesn't do it, I'm not sure where to go from there.

Edit: I hope that makes sense^^^

[jimbob200521]

Well gentlemen, we're closer than we were yesterday. I tried my idea about the studs, to no avail. I then took something I had thought about (the motor being mounted level/straight/true) and darkminion_17's suggestion about the ball bearing in the mounting flange. I looked at a diagram for mounting the motor and found that I had not put back on (in the right order) the rubber grommets that go between the motor and the frame and was actually missing 2! After futzing around with that for a bit and ideally getting that ball bearing in the mounting flange as true as I could, I fired her up. Much, much better but still not the way it should be. It seems like once it gets warmed up, the clutch goes back to not stopping when the peddle is pressed.

So, any other suggestions anyone has? We've gotten this far, I'm sure not gonna stop now!!

BTW, thank you darkminion_17 and everyone that's spoken up on this issue.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by jimbob200521

After futzing around with that for a bit and ideally getting that ball bearing in the mounting flange as true as I could, I fired her up.

I'd say this is the part that is still giving you issues. Maybe you should just replace the flange and ball.