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  #1  
Old 06-20-2013, 07:51 PM
djknoedler djknoedler is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ohio
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Default 782 Restoration Questions

Hi Everyone,

This is a 1981 782 I picked up with a 44" deck, 42" blade, and 1A tiller + gearbox. Has the original KT-17 Series 2 but smokes after 30 minutes and only shows 55/60 psi. I have a new breather assembly, various tune up parts, and a gasket set on the way. The valves are nasty so I'm not sure the head gaskets and other tuning will help much. The owner claims the hours are true at 341.

I have a couple questions-if I decide not too fool with the KT-17 what is it worth? It is complete and runs strong-never would've realized the compression was low based on mowing/driving. I'm leaning towards returning the $100 in parts and just repowering with a Vanguard kit for $1,400.

My other questions are:

1) Is this the correct gearbox and rear frame cover/lift to run this tiller?
2) What is the proper name for the rear frame cover/lift? It is black, thick steel, and attaches to the lift bar that runs to the lift cylinder for the deck carriage.
3) Other than a tiller, what is made to match up to the tapped holes in what I describe in #2 above?
4) Is there a way to release the pressure on the hydro pump like the newer cheaper lawn tractors that have a small lever? I'm not familiar with this generation

Thanks for any help and answers.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tiller.jpg (20.4 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg Rear Lift Front.jpg (24.9 KB, 119 views)
File Type: jpg Rear Lift Back.jpg (16.8 KB, 117 views)
File Type: jpg Gearbox.jpg (17.7 KB, 118 views)
File Type: jpg Cadet.jpg (23.0 KB, 118 views)
File Type: jpg Cadet Partially Disassembled.jpg (18.0 KB, 118 views)
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2013, 08:16 PM
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bolivier bolivier is offline
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Location: Oklahoma
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1. Gearbox is correct for the tiller. Don't think you will be able to put the lift plate on at the same time.
2. Looks like it's a cat 0 lift.
3. Any cat 0 implement or attatchment. (box blade, plow, scraper blade, cultivator, etc)
4. I would think push the hydro lift lever forward. (not sure about that one though)
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(2) Brinly 10" plow, brinly disc, (3) brinly cultivator, 42" box blade, 1A tiller
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2013, 08:18 PM
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bolivier bolivier is offline
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4. Maybe the release valves on top of the pump. So you can roll it around. Is this what you're talking about??
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100, 149, 1650, 1872, 2072, 2082
(2) Brinly 10" plow, brinly disc, (3) brinly cultivator, 42" box blade, 1A tiller
Johnson workhorse 10tc loader, 44a, 50a, (2) 50c, 42 & (2) 48 decks

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  #4  
Old 06-20-2013, 09:12 PM
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cubby102 cubby102 is offline
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That one should and does look like it has automatic release valvs so no need tonhave a lever as for the rest I'm not sure on
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2013, 11:27 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djknoedler View Post
Has the original KT-17 Series 2 but smokes after 30 minutes and only shows 55/60 psi.
There was another guy on here the other day talking about low compression. I'll tell you the same thing I told him. You may want to check it again. An engine needs somewhere around 90 PSI to run decent. I have a hard time believing it starts easily at 55 PSI. The correct way to do a compression check is to:
1.) Take both spark plugs out and disable the ignition.
2.) Open the throttle ALL the way.
3.) Crank the motor until the gauge stops building pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djknoedler View Post
My other questions are:

1) Is this the correct gearbox and rear frame cover/lift to run this tiller?
2) What is the proper name for the rear frame cover/lift? It is black, thick steel, and attaches to the lift bar that runs to the lift cylinder for the deck carriage.
3) Other than a tiller, what is made to match up to the tapped holes in what I describe in #2 above?
4) Is there a way to release the pressure on the hydro pump like the newer cheaper lawn tractors that have a small lever? I'm not familiar with this generation
1.) Yes the tiller appears to have the correct mounts to be used with that rear lift.
2.) It is a cat 0 3pt hitch
3.) I have no idea what you are referring to, but the 3pt will work on any cat 0 3pt attachment.
4.) No. And ABSOLUTELY DO NOT move the hydro lever forward while towing it. Leave it in neutral. Tow it slowly, and not very far or you could damage the hydrostat.

Good Luck!
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2013, 08:45 AM
djknoedler djknoedler is offline
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Thanks for the responses thus far.

The compression was checked properly (plugs out, throttle wide open, etc). 55psi on the side with a loose head/leaking head gasket as evidenced by carbon build up where has was escaping. 60psi on the other side. Checked repeatedly. I suspect that the valves are not sealing well based on the amount of carbon buildup as well?

I was referring to the pre-tapped holes in the category 0 3-pt hitch. There are 5 of those tapped holes-was just trying to figure out what can be bolted on to that pattern-PO had drilled 2 additional holes and mounted the tiller gearbox to it with nuts and bolts and didn't bother to even measure evenly. They will get plug welded, ground down, filled, and painted this weekend.

As far as the hydro release-doesn't seem to be a consistent answer. I am trying to make sure I don't damage the hydro by rolling it around by pushing with my arms/legs excessively. I thought some had a way to release the pressure after pushing a few feet. If this is automatic on this model I'd appreciate someone confirming that.

Thanks again and if anyone has a 48" blade let me know.
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2013, 10:03 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djknoedler View Post
I thought some had a way to release the pressure after pushing a few feet. If this is automatic on this model I'd appreciate someone confirming that..
I am confirming it. From your pic it has NO release buttons on the valves. Put it in neutral and roll it slowly. There is NO RELEASE ON YOUR TRACTOR.
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