Thinking about getting a 982.

[Muzzy]

A friend has two 982's. One is a red cc and the other is a yellow/white ccc. Both have dual spool hydraulics with front ports. Both have blown onans in them and neither of them have a 3pt or rear pto's which I don't need anyway. Both tractors are in good shape and would be fairly easy to fix up and make look good again. He also has a good running mag 18 to go with either tractor. He wants $1000 for the ccc with the mag 18 and $1200 for the cc with the mag 18. I don't know much about supers so, I'm relying on you guys to help me out here. Are those prices inline? Will I have to get a bunch of expensive parts to repower with the mag 18. I would be useing the tractor for plowing snow and pulling a york rake. I believe the cc has a cast iron rearend and the ccc has an aluminum one. It would seem to me that the cast iron rear would be better suited to what I want to do with the tractor but, I'd like to hear what you guys think. What other things should I look out for when I go to check these out? I saw them last summer but really did'nt pay that much attention to them other than their general appearance. Anything you can tell me about 982's would be appreciated. Which one would you buy?

Thanks.

[riesedesperado6170]

if the red one has a cast rearend take that one the alum. have a nasty habit of cracking and breaking.

[CTRUEX]

It's really about preference, ask 100 people and you'll get mixed answers. Personally, I'd go with the red one, but not just for the cast iron rear, but because I like the red 82 series tractors, and it's more than likely an IH built machine, with an IH serial number (more valuable to most people), but I haven't seen either.

As for price, it depends on condition, etc. You'll never get a straight answer, unless it's $100 or $5,000. I've seen decent, running IH 982's sell for $1k. Personally, I'd struggle with paying that much for a project, unless it's super nice and 100% complete, but that's just me. I price them based on what I could get parting them out, priced conservatively, and try to pay half that, but never more. Using that formula, you're 982 in question is on the high side. Getting a "good deal" is really about how much you're willing to pay, based on what they sell for in your area.

If the M18 is out of a Cub Cadet, it won't take much to do the swap. The driveshaft's have different part numbers, so I assume you'll need to lengthen/shorten the one in it. Look into the 2000 series driveshaft conversion.

And finally, as for what to look for, that's tougher to do on a non-runner. Make sure the steering is tight, since most parts are NLA, and NOS parts are non existent. Check overall condition, and study up on what they are supposed to look like, so you will be able to notice prior fixes, modifications, and missing parts.

Good luck and I hope I helped you out, and that you find a good one in these two, or elsewhere.

[ken6x6]

go RED! do the engine swap and your ready to go. you won't have to worry about the rear that way.

[bruce s]

My vote would be the red one . With the cast rearend you could rig up a sleve hitch .As far as price thats up to how bad you want a super . If the tractor is complete and in good shape and the 18 mag is in good shape then maybe a $1200.00 isn't that bad.