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#1
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What have you found that works best for tire ballast. I've been reading from sand to windshield washer fuild what did you use? Did you do it yourself or pay to have it put in?
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#2
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it is inexpensive, easy to obtain, and is not very messy. It most generally is pumped into the tires with a fill adaptor readily avail from Ag tire suppliers or Tractor supply co-- About $10.00 a cheap harbor freight drill powered pump works, also some have used a pump type garden sprayer and pumped it in that way. You are only limited by your imagination. It is generally accepted that chloride is just a big mess, & corrodes the rims. Although I do use it in all my large farm tractors with tubes.-- I have used it over 45 years, but there are corrosion issues. I would not recommend it for small tubeless tires. they also have a beet pulp that is pumped into tires, it is non corrosive but more costly than WW fluid. I have pumped in used Sierra antifreeze also.( the friendly type) rather than just dispose of it. |
#3
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A lot of my tires are filled with WW Fluid, but I have started using 8oz. of Dawn Dishwashing detergent per tire, then adding water. Believe it or not it will not freeze, although Betsy did give me "that look" when she came home and found a wheel & tire in the freezer one evening.
I always use tubes in my loaded tires. |
#4
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I use washer fluid. It would also be a good idea to put it in a tube so you don't make a mess if you knock the tire off the rim for some reason.
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#5
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Rimguard (beetjuice). Good stuff and heavier than the other stuff.
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#6
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I used recycled diesel antifreeze that is environmentally safe.I made my own filling unit(as you could easily) and did it myself.Took about 1/2 hour or 2 beers per wheel to complete. I didn't use tubes though..
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Pat Harmon Loganton,Pa 128 Cub Cadet 1200 Cub cadet (Red) LT 1042 Cub Cadet 1200 Cub Cadet 165 Hydro John Deere 1941 John Deere H 1950 David Bradley 5756 1952 David Bradley 57561 Super Power |
#7
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I use the rimguard (beet juice) in mine with tubes. A 23X10.50X12 ag tire weighs about 100lbs all together, although nice and heavy, they are a pain to put on the tractor. I then bought three 7/16" fine threaded bolts, cut the heads off of them, and cut in a screw driver slot. I thread these into the axles, slide the wheel on, put in two lug bolts and then remove the "studs" one at a time and replace with the lug bolts. Sure makes lining up those loaded wheel/tires on them.
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#8
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Duncan, why not just make the studs and leave them in?
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Jim Bridgewater, KD0FJO Osage, IA 1976 IH Cub Cadet 1650, 44A rotary mower deck, 42" snow blade, QA42A snow thrower, rear blade, cab Well, that's out of date. Current count is 2 LT1050's, a 76, 1 2284, 1 2130, 1 2135, 1020, and 10 1250- 1650's, with decks, blades, snow throwers, and a Brinly plow |
#9
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![]() ![]() Scott |
#10
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I must have had too much practice changing rear wheels because I've never had any trouble lining up rear wheels, loaded or otherwise. I think the trick is to use one of those little scissors jacks that come with cars. They can be adjusted in very small increments to get things perfectly lined up.
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