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  #1  
Old 09-11-2014, 07:47 PM
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crossingcrown crossingcrown is offline
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Default Bad valve

well, it is for certain... bad manual valve.. finally broke it free,, and yes rusted.. very. craters almost 16th deep in the sides,, rusting so bad, it met up with the steel on the hydro. two days of soaking with W-D, and cleaning out the space with a little flat head. Finally it broke loose.

So, now I have to take off the hydro, and find the innerds to the manual valve.

Does hydro fluid tend to stink really bad. Mine does, and is dark yellow.

Now I recknin, hydro and the rear get two different fluids right?!

Brands? Price tags?

Every step forward, seems like two steps back.. the good news, I am taking a shoot in the dark, but,, I think that the valve is the reverse problem. Now on to the next. hahaha

This place is awesome.. you all helped a lot. and I thank you for that. Jonathan you really know your stuff, and it seems that you really help a lot of people.. And for that, You Rock!
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  #2  
Old 09-11-2014, 07:54 PM
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Shrewcub Shrewcub is offline
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Default

Pictures may help, and for curiosity what model?

The hydro and rear use the same fluid. Hytran or UTF. Your tractor, your choice. And yes it is stinky.
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  #3  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:06 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Easy fix, take your 2 valves and send them to this guy.
Machtech Direct
605 Furnace Rd.
Conneaut Ohio 44030
Phone: 440-499-5813
Email: mark.machtech@gmail.com
It will cost you about $70.00 plus some shipping.
He will rebuild them and your back in business. Change the fluid and the filter. NAPA part #1410 or equal. You will be Happy, happy, happy.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:35 PM
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crossingcrown crossingcrown is offline
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thank you much, I have tried and tried to get pics up, but I cant get them on here... trying thou.. still trying..
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  #5  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:37 PM
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crossingcrown crossingcrown is offline
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sorry, it is a IH 1250 hydro
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:06 PM
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I can vouch for Mark @ Direct. Top Notch guy.
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2014, 09:51 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Why do you have to take the hydro off? You don't need to do that...... Unless you got dirt in it or something......
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:55 PM
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the innerds of the manual fell in the hydro. the end that goes down in the hydro, there was a hair line crack. I guess with all the banging to try and get the valve out, the guts of the valve fell out.. unless there is another trick to getting them out.???
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Old 09-11-2014, 11:32 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Oh.... that's cool. Never had one do that! Well.... unless you can fish them out with a magnet, no..... you'll have to at least take it off and split the case. Word to the wise: Power wash the whole rear end before you take the hydro off. Then after you take it off, make sure the unit itself is clean. Not a huge deal if it gets a little water in it, as you are going to split it. But do your best to keep water out. I'd put the valve back in the hole before cleaning. You don't want to get dirt in there. Hydro's don't like dirt.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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