1810 riveted brake linings

Grand Pops 1810 · #1 05-30-2015, 10:38 PM

Hey guys,
I've seen on a few posts on here where you glue new brake lining material from McMaster on your brake pads. The pads on my 1810 are riveted. Do you drill out the rivets and glue on the new brake lining, or is there a source for new riveted pads? The stop tube between my pads is preventing my work pads from touching the rotor firmly, they can't be adjusted any tighter. I suppose the stop tube is to prevent the rivets from gouging the rotor?

Thanks!

J-Mech · #2 05-31-2015, 01:07 AM

There isn't a "stop tube" on those brakes.....

Not sure what you are seeing. The only thing that limits how far they go is the fact that the cam arm will only allow so much travel. When the brakes get warn so far, you run out of adjustment and typically the cam arm will not return well on it's own.

Yes, you can drill the rivets and bond new brake lining on the backing base plate.

Grand Pops 1810 · #3 05-31-2015, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

There isn't a "stop tube" on those brakes.....

Not sure what you are seeing. The only thing that limits how far they go is the fact that the cam arm will only allow so much travel. When the brakes get warn so far, you run out of adjustment and typically the cam arm will not return well on it's own.

Yes, you can drill the rivets and bond new brake lining on the backing base plate.

Mine has tube (sleeves?) between the 2 pads that the bolts go through. The pad return spring is on the outside of the tube? It is of length to prevent worn pads from coming close enough together for the rivets to wear into the rotor?? I took the tubes out on one side so the caliper is un-restrained, but now the caliper jiggles around a lot on the bolts. I'll drill the rivets out and get started!

bleoh · #4 06-02-2015, 10:19 PM

I just drilled out the rivets and JB welded on new friction material from McMaster Carr. Plenty of write-ups on it if you search. When I did mine only one side of my old brakes were working and the side that was not working had much more friction material on it and the brake rod was adjusted as far as it would go. I noticed that the sleeves were different lengths on the two sides. So I trimmed down the longer ones so they were the same on both side. Brakes work good now.

Oak · #5 06-02-2015, 11:37 PM

IIRC, the tubes are what the pads slide on and the spring pushes them back when the pedal is released. Take a close look at the end of the lever that pushes on the inboard pad. When it wears it gets rounded and doesn't push the pad as far and sometimes has to be built up with the spark box.

Grand Pops 1810 · #6 06-03-2015, 09:38 PM

I previously found threads on bonding new brake linings, but saw no reference to drilling out rivets, so I asked.

I'll have to check closer to see if my pads slide on the tubes... I thought the tube was bigger diameter than the pad opening, and hence a "stop" when the lining wore down enough. Should be lots of wear marks on the tubes if the pad is supposed to slide on them. Maybe mine are acting as a stop because the tubes weren't aligned with both holes in the pads?