Pulled the head...

[Cougar281]

I started out on the path of rebuilding the carb so (hopefully) it wouldn't leak fuel when it wasn't running, but in the end, based on comments here, and the fact that to get the e-clip on the throttle out with what I had, I ended up having to remove the top shield and thus two head bolts, I ended up going more or less all out and pulling the head. Here's what it looked like (Click the images if you want to go all out full resolution):





These are as the head was removed. Nothing touched otherwise. I can't claim to be an expert, but it appears to me as if the HG was blown towards the front of the tractor.

I've since cleaned it up - scraped the carbon off the block (it's hard to tell in the pic, but the carbon buildup on the block was pretty significant) and cleaned up the head. I'm reserving final prep of the block until I have the new HG to put it back together.

I've watched a Youtube video on flattening out a Kohler head, which I used the info from on cleaning up a B&S head for a pressure washer that I had to pull the head on, but the glass I used for that broke by the time I was done. It just dawned on me that I have an 18"x18" absolute black granite tile doing nothing that appears to be really flat. And more robust than a 1/8" thick sheet of class from Home Depot. Think that might be adequate to do the same with the Kohler head?

I'd like to do a little more on the head, if possible, since brushes can only get so far - Is there any reason I couldn't stick it in my blast cabinet and clean it up more that way (I use baking soda in my cabinet)?

I still strongly suspect it needs more than just a HG, and to that end I'm debating taking this motor to J-Mech and having him rebuild it, or bringing another K301 that's still at my grandmothers back, trying my hand at a rebuild of that, and if I should fail at rebuilding it, then take this one to him.

That all being said, any other recommendations form the pros here? For the short term, I'm going to put it back together to help deal with leaves between now and when 'Fall' becomes 'Fell' (I still need to figure out why the deck doesn't want to hang level, but that's a topic for another thread). But after that, I'd like to try to pursue further improving/restoring it.

[zippy1]

Blasting the head isn't going to hurt anything, especially with baking soda.
The counter top piece would be fine. I've always used glass, but if you are sure it's "lazar" flat, go for it.
Yes, looks as if the head gasket was bad.

[J-Mech]

Head gasket was leaking.

Blasting the head is fine. I blast every one I rebuild.

Your engine is running very, very rich. Need to find the source of that problem and correct it. I would also say the timing is off, based on the carbon trail on the block below where the spark plug sits. I would say the timing is retarded.


From the amount of carbon, I'd say it's burning some oil too.

[Cougar281]

Originally Posted by zippy1

Blasting the head isn't going to hurt anything, especially with baking soda.
The counter top piece would be fine. I've always used glass, but if you are sure it's "lazar" flat, go for it.
Yes, looks as if the head gasket was bad.

I wish I could say it was laser flat - but I have no way of determining that. I have some levels and squares, but they're meant for carpentry, and it's entirely possible that none of them are laser flat, with a few thousandths variation of their own that would never impact anything carpentry related.

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Head gasket was leaking.

Blasting the head is fine. I blast every one I rebuild.

Your engine is running very, very rich. Need to find the source of that problem and correct it. I would also say the timing is off, based on the carbon trail on the block below where the spark plug sits. I would say the timing is retarded.


From the amount of carbon, I'd say it's burning some oil too.

I would assume the running rich is related to the carb adjustments - I just 'rebuilt' the carb, so that will need to be dialed in again (wish me luck lol - I've really never really monkeyed with carbs (they're kind of 'black magic'... or a barely controlled fuel leak - to me - I usually only monkey with FI), hopefully I'll get it running right, not rich, when I'm done. As far as timing, I recently replaced the condenser with a 'transdenser' from Kirk Engines. It has a LED in it (essentially replaces using a test light to indicate when the points open and close), so hopefully that'll help me dial in the timing. I'll have to sit down with that after the head is back on and the carb is more or less dialed in. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it's burning oil.. I can't say I'd be shocked if it was found that the cylinder was 'egg shaped' and leaking compression and oil. It is 50-ish years old and as far as I know, has never been touched (in any major, rebuild/replace type capacity).

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Cougar281

I wish I could say it was laser flat -

I would get a piece of glass. They don't cost much.

Originally Posted by Cougar281

I would assume the running rich is related to the carb adjustments

Not really much else puts too much fuel into an engine other than the carb..... It can be more than adjustments though. If the float height is incorrect, or not shutting the fuel off, the carb will pull in the fuel that is overflowing in the bowl. At least to the point it either chokes the engine to death, or it flows out too fast and runs out the air filter. It will usually kill the engine first though.

Only other possibility is that it isn't getting enough air. If it has a dirty ol' nasty air filter on it, replace it.

Originally Posted by Cougar281

I just 'rebuilt' the carb, so that will need to be dialed in again (wish me luck lol - I've really never really monkeyed with carbs (they're kind of 'black magic'... or a barely controlled fuel leak - to me - I usually only monkey with FI), hopefully I'll get it running right, not rich, when I'm done.

Pretty simple. Only two adjustments. Much simpler than FI. No computer to get confused by a faulty sensor.

Originally Posted by Cougar281

As far as timing, I recently replaced the condenser with a 'transdenser' from Kirk Engines. It has a LED in it (essentially replaces using a test light to indicate when the points open and close), so hopefully that'll help me dial in the timing.

I'm familiar with those perfectly useless pieces of wasted money. I'll keep my points. You still need to find the timing marks on the flywheel to time it though. That's the hardest part.

Originally Posted by Cougar281

I'll have to sit down with that after the head is back on and the carb is more or less dialed in.

No need to wait. Do it now. If the timing is wrong, then all the adjustments you make on the carb will be wrong too. Engine tuning 101. Timing and ignition first, fuel second.

Originally Posted by Cougar281

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it's burning oil.. I can't say I'd be shocked if it was found that the cylinder was 'egg shaped' and leaking compression and oil. It is 50-ish years old and as far as I know, has never been touched (in any major, rebuild/replace type capacity).

I promise it is egg shaped and wore out. Too much oil carbon not to be. Make sure to clean it off real well.

[Cougar281]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I would get a piece of glass. They don't cost much.

True, but I'll have to find someplace to get an adequate piece. the 1/8" thick stuff at home depot isn't robust enough.

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I'm familiar with those perfectly useless pieces of wasted money. I'll keep my points. You still need to find the timing marks on the flywheel to time it though. That's the hardest part.

Everything's a matter of opinion. I supposed that could be true if one enjoys replacing points. The transdenser doesn't replace the points. The points are very much still there and control the ignition. It replaces the condenser with a part that does the same thing as the condenser, while sending far less current through the points, thus greatly extending their life. Maybe it's the 'placebo effect' or something, but the engine definitely did seem to start better after installing the transdenser. :shrug:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

No need to wait. Do it now. If the timing is wrong, then all the adjustments you make on the carb will be wrong too. Engine tuning 101. Timing and ignition first, fuel second.

Good point - I'll do that.

[Bamafan]

[QUOTE=Cougar281;433735]True, but I'll have to find someplace to get an adequate piece. the 1/8" thick stuff at home depot isn't robust enough.

Just a thought. You might want to consider a piece of 1/4 in plexiglass. I works well for me and I don't have to worry about it breaking if I were to drop it.

[olds45512]

Just about any place that replaces auto glass can also cut you a piece of 1/4" glass.

[darkminion_17]

I have a piece of 1/4 tempered glass from a old coffee table.
Tempered does not flex like 1/8"
Tim, where do you get pieces of sandpaper sheets longer than, but wide enough to sand the head ?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Cougar281

Everything's a matter of opinion. I supposed that could be true if one enjoys replacing points. The transdenser doesn't replace the points. The points are very much still there and control the ignition. It replaces the condenser with a part that does the same thing as the condenser, while sending far less current through the points, thus greatly extending their life. Maybe it's the 'placebo effect' or something, but the engine definitely did seem to start better after installing the trandenser.

If you say so. Like I said, I know how they install and how they work. Points wear our on a Kohler about 1 or 2 times in the life of the motor, which is about 40 years. I bet that trandenser fails before a set of points do. I've seen them cause more problems than they fixed. But, it's your money, and your tractor.