GT 3200 Hydro valve-lift leak?

[phillijw]

I'm not entirely sure if this is the right term for the part I'm looking at. It's the part that the handles connect to for raising and lowering the deck and snowblower attachments (the hydraulic handles).



As you can see in my picture, one of them is leaking. I've dried and cleaned everyone off and then sprinkled baby powder so it's easy to see where the leak is coming from (right out of the top where the handle attaches to).

Anyone know if this can be repaired with a seal or if the entire thing needs to be replaced (yuck, it's $275 I think). Is this a better job for a shop or can a mere mortal fix this? Can I keep using it while it's leaking if I keep an eye on the fluid?

[R Bedell]

I "think" it looks like an internal "O Ring" that has gone bad. Maybe removing this Spool Valve and taking to Hydraulic Repair Shop, for inspection and repair.

[dale c.]

Very easy fix. They have 2 O-rings in each spool that wear out and need replaced . The top of the shafts have arrows on them make sure you assemble the same way they come out or the valve will work backwards. There's a company that makes a double lip seal to replace the O-rings that is better, but I don't remember the name.

[ejl6658]

The two o rings in the valve need to be replaced and will solve your issue. They are a common wear item in the valve and need to be replaced with use. Replacing the o rings is is a fairly simple task but requires removing the lines from both valves, and removing the valves to replace. You will need o rings for the valves bodies as well as backing rings and o rings for the lines. Mc Master-Carr sells everything you need cheap in quantities of 100.


Oil-Resistant Buna-N Backup Rings

0.053" Wide, for Dash Number 011
5288T117

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring

1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 011
9452K19

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring

2.5 mm Wide, 11 mm ID
9262K234

[phillijw]

Great! Thanks for the info. Any advice on tools that will make this easiest? Or other tips/videos that would be helpful?

[ejl6658]

Need basic hand tools and a good pair of snap ring pliers. I would replace the O rings in both valves even if the other one isn't leaking because it eventually will.
This valve rebuild thread should help:

https://www.mytractorforum.com/threa...rebuild.52031/

[phillijw]

I did it and I don't believe anything is leaking anymore. I'll double check tomorrow but so far so good.

Took me a little while to figure out how to take everything out and put it back together. I think it's easiest if you take off the rear wheels before you start. That gives you easy access to most of the hard to reach bolts a lot easier (do it before you even take the clam shell thing off that the seat attaches to because it helps reach those as well).

The thread you linked was a little confusing due to lack of pictures so I snapped a photo of my valve taken apart so people can see what it looks like. Also, that thread was talking about two separate sets of o-rings the entire time and got very confusing. But I eventually figured it out I think.

After taking the valve assembly out and apart, this is what I ended up with:


I used some carb cleaner (all I had until I found the brake cleaner) and brake cleaner to clean up all the parts before replacing the o-rings on the spools.

Here are what I believe to be the spools:


As you can see, mine had just one o-ring on each end. Mine looked pretty good when I took them off but after replacing them the problem went away so I guess they must've not been good after all. To replace them, I put tape around the sharp edges and rolled the new o-rings into place. They went on pretty easily. I did not double them up or anything. I just replaced how it was when I took them out.

I then used some Zoom Spout lubricating oil on the o-rings before putting it back together.

I then replaced the backing o-ring and main o-ring for each of the ports on the valve.

My suggestion would be to take a few pictures of how the lines are laying before taking anything apart. I'm not entirely sure if I got everything back in its original place but it seems to fit and work .. but I'll never really know.

Whoever installed or worked on these valves last had arrows on everything and 1's and 2's written on things so it was pretty easy to understand where everything went with the valve. The spools have to face a certain direction so the arrows helped out here (they face to the back on mine).

Overall, took me probably 4 hours or so having never really done anything like this before.

[phillijw]

Just wanted to follow up and say that I am leak free! If there's anything I could've or should've done differently please let me know for next time

[ejl6658]

Glad you were able to resolve your leak issue.

[JohnnyRico]

Hello everyone. First time poster here. I had been using this site to diagnose problems for several other issues, so first let me say thank you!

Currently, I am having the exact same issue as the original poster. Leaking drive fluid from my hydro lift valve, but my mower is a Cub Cadet 3204 model instead. I bought it from an old friend of mine in 2015 before he and his family left town. I am pretty sure she is going on about 21 years old now and has 890 hours on her.

I have ordered the necessary o-rings, etc., but my question is this... how in the world do I remove the yellow "clamshell" portion with the seat attached? I have tried everything and am about to lose my mind, haha. There were 6 nuts and bolts I removed attaching it to the front portion of the mower shell, and then there were the two torx bolts on the front of the seat brackets. There is obviously something keeping the rear portion attached to the frame. Does anyone know what it is?

Please help!