1862 question

[cheelo8668]

i have just purchased a well used(1700hrs) 1862 for $150. it was not running at time of purchase, brought home- no spark. stole a coil from one of my spare m-18.
fired right up, very little smoke.does have a semi-stripped out heli-coil on one head. seems to move well, no creep. question i have is can i transfer my tiller set-up from my 1450 over to the 1862 and be cost effective. the 1862 has no hitch. also i have very little knowledge on these newer cubs. what problems should i look for to determine if i should invest any time or money into it? i do have 2 m-18's that run well, if i need to replace. thank- you

[Methos]

Originally Posted by cheelo8668

i have just purchased a well used(1700hrs) 1862 for $150. it was not running at time of purchase, brought home- no spark. stole a coil from one of my spare m-18.
fired right up, very little smoke.does have a semi-stripped out heli-coil on one head. seems to move well, no creep. question i have is can i transfer my tiller set-up from my 1450 over to the 1862 and be cost effective. the 1862 has no hitch. also i have very little knowledge on these newer cubs. what problems should i look for to determine if i should invest any time or money into it? i do have 2 m-18's that run well, if i need to replace. thank- you

Sounds like you got a pretty good deal! If your 1450 and 1862 are the same size the tiller could be mounted on it but you'll have to do something about the alum. rear end. The tiller would pull the bolts right out of the axle housing unless you put a cast iron rear end in there. I'm not 100% sure that it could be done but with everything with the know how, tools or the cash anything can be done. It would be a custom setup for sure. If it was me I'd keep using the 1450 for tilling duties. I can see desire of using the 1862 with power steering and tilt steering wheel you could sit and till all day long with out using very much energy.

[Cubcrazy]

I would leave the tiller on the 1450.
Alot of work to make the 1862 tiller ready.
On top of what duke said you would need a three point hitch set up and pulley changes as well.

[jbollis]

I don't know why everyone tries to scare people into thinking the aluminum rear ends are weak and cannot handle any kind of work load. I have never heard of anyone pulling the bolts out of the rear. I am not saying it has not been done, but I would bet if it has they were doing something they should not have been doing or the bolts were not tight.

I did some looking and figuring and this is what I found.

Fastener = 3/8-16 x.750. Using about .500

A 3/8-16 thread internal thread has around a .03392 shear area at .500 of use. I don't know the specs for the housing, so I used the lowest aluminum tensile strength of 26000 psi for this figure.

.03392 x 26000 = 881.92 psi per bolt, x 5 bolts = 4409.60 psi on only the bolts themselves would be needed to pull (strip) the threads out of the aluminum housing.

I understand that these numbers are not exact as I don't know the exact specs on the housing. But you can see that someone would have a very difficult time pulling the 5 bolts out under normal use. A person would have to be pulling more than 2 tons, that is more than you can legally haul in the bed of most pickups.

I can however see problems occurring if the bolts are not tight. But that is a another story.

[rkeithley]

Originally Posted by Methos

Sounds like you got a pretty good deal! If your 1450 and 1862 are the same size the tiller could be mounted on it but you'll have to do something about the alum. rear end. The tiller would pull the bolts right out of the axle housing unless you put a cast iron rear end in there. I'm not 100% sure that it could be done but with everything with the know how, tools or the cash anything can be done. It would be a custom setup for sure. If it was me I'd keep using the 1450 for tilling duties. I can see desire of using the 1862 with power steering and tilt steering wheel you could sit and till all day long with out using very much energy.

I have a no. 2 tiller on the back of my 1864 (same tractor only with a command engine) and never had a problem with pulling the bolts out. The sleeve hitch off the 1450 will work with the 1862, you wll need the Frankenstein bolts to use it. I would change the pull on the gear box to the wider belt. The 1862 will be a better tractor to use than the 1450.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by jbollis

I don't know why everyone tries to scare people into thinking the aluminum rear ends are weak and cannot handle any kind of work load. I have never heard of anyone pulling the bolts out of the rear. I am not saying it has not been done, but I would bet if it has they were doing something they should not have been doing or the bolts were not tight.

I did some looking and figuring and this is what I found.

Fastener = 3/8-16 x.750. Using about .500

A 3/8-16 thread internal thread has around a .03392 shear area at .500 of use. I don't know the specs for the housing, so I used the lowest aluminum tensile strength of 26000 psi for this figure.

.03392 x 26000 = 881.92 psi per bolt, x 5 bolts = 4409.60 psi on only the bolts themselves would be needed to pull (strip) the threads out of the aluminum housing.

I understand that these numbers are not exact as I don't know the exact specs on the housing. But you can see that someone would have a very difficult time pulling the 5 bolts out under normal use. A person would have to be pulling more than 2 tons, that is more than you can legally haul in the bed of most pickups.

I can however see problems occurring if the bolts are not tight. But that is a another story.

So when you going to hook a tiller up to a alum rear end and prove your point? I sure don't feel like telling someone that they will not have problems when I feel other wise. There's a reason why xtreme motor works and others put side tabs on their products. My gut feeling is that it's not for looks.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...CC-03-001M.htm

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part.../CC-29-010.htm

[jbollis]

Originally Posted by Methos

So when you going to hook a tiller up to a alum rear end and prove your point? I sure don't feel like telling someone that they will not have problems when I feel other wise. There's a reason why xtreme motor works and others put side tabs on their products. My gut feeling is that it's not for looks.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...CC-03-001M.htm

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part.../CC-29-010.htm

Not to start an argument here but the the numbers do not lie, nor was Extreme involved in the design of the aluminum rear end.

No offense to Extreme's stuff but, just because someone over builds a part for (extreme) use, does not mean that the stock part will not work for normal use.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by jbollis

Not to start an argument here but the the numbers do not lie, nor was Extreme involved in the design of the aluminum rear end.

No offense to Extreme's stuff but, just because someone over builds a part for (extreme) use, does not mean that the stock part will not work for normal use.

Not take it as a argument but there's a reason why the gear box tillers were never used on a alum rear end. I have not heard of anyone using a tiller gear box on an alum rear end if you have please share with us. As you and I both wasn't part of the design team I guess neither one of us has a leg to stand on.

Maybe there's someone that has done it and would like to share their experence with us.

[jbollis]

Perhaps the above poster could share their experience with us.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by rkeithley

I have a no. 2 tiller on the back of my 1864 (same tractor only with a command engine) and never had a problem with pulling the bolts out. The sleeve hitch off the 1450 will work with the 1862, you wll need the Frankenstein bolts to use it. I would change the pull on the gear box to the wider belt. The 1862 will be a better tractor to use than the 1450.

Got pics? How long have you been using this setup?