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  #1  
Old 06-18-2011, 04:59 PM
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cdlong cdlong is offline
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Default 50" deck still ain't right

Last year, I had a problem with the deck cutting lower on the right when making a turn. This year I have the same problem and all my wife says is "You shouldn't have sold the Sears, it was a better tractor". Horse Ma-nour!!!! Here's what I've done: All 4 tires have 12 psi. I use the Sternh tool to level the deck. The concrete pad I park the tractor on to level the deck is level. My deck is level side to side set @ 2-1/2". the deck front to rear is 2-1/2" front and 3" rear. The front adjusters are all the way up. What the _ _ _ _ am I doing wrong. There doesn't appear to be any washers/spacers under the rear hangers either.
If ya need better pics of anything, let me know.
Thanks
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2011, 06:53 PM
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riesedesperado6170 riesedesperado6170 is offline
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some of it is when you turn the surface speed on that side when you turn expecily left turn and if your blades get real wore it get worst
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  #3  
Old 06-19-2011, 12:27 AM
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According to the manual, with the center blade and one of the outer blades parrallel with the tractor, the front tip of the center blade should be level with the rear tip of the outer blade. You probably have way too much downward angle on the deck and could be causing your problem.
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  #4  
Old 06-19-2011, 04:35 AM
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If it is downward angle, how do I correct it? Wheels are in the 3rd hole down. The wheels do not touch the concrete surface when the deck is lowered to the cutting height.
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #5  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:17 AM
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I didn't notice at first that your front eyelets are adjusted all the way. That's odd. Maybe where your eyelets ride on the lift arms, it's really worn there. You may need to weld up that area and then grind it down to specs. You could add some shims or washers between the rear hangers and the deck. That would drop the rear of the deck. I'd also check to see if anything is bent or damaged. Just remember when you have your deck at the desired cutting height, the gauge wheels should be set to about 1/2" off the ground. I think the manual calls for the rear tires to be at 10 psi. That would lower the rear of the deck a little bit but I think that's probably not the source of the problem.
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  #6  
Old 06-19-2011, 03:18 PM
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I must have read something wrong. I have all 4 tires @ 12 PSI. I had the arms filled in, (welded) and ground even when I purchased as used hanger and mule drive. My drive had straight pullies. I have added the shims to the rear hangers. The deck is within 1/8" front to rear. We'll nsee what she does next mowing.
Thanks for all the help.
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2011, 08:51 AM
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With my 50in deck I had found out that one of my spindles was original so I had to use two flat washer to make the blade the same height as the other newer spindles. Ive also accepted the fact that when I mow my mower tilts side to side based on what the ground is doing under my tires. Is it possible you have a shear pin that is broken. I run with my deck all the way up to get about 3in of grass height and my coil pin was broken but still allowed it to go up and down. Im having trouble with your pics, what is it doing to the grass?
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  #8  
Old 06-21-2011, 10:49 AM
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Default Welcome to the weird deck

I am having the same problem with my 44 inch deck and can only imagine what another 6 inches does to the problem. I believe that the deck can be adjusted correctly to mow on flat ground but in turns or on hills the design is flawed as it stands. Look at the narrow force applied under the tractor. It is confined to less than 20 inches and that has to withstand the downward forces of a hill or the centrifugal forces of a turn. It just doesn't have the leverage to counter these forces. My temporary solution was to add short cables with turn buckles to keep the balance against any outside forces from tilting the deck. Although they look goofy they do work and they allow the deck to rise up if an object is encountered. I am working on a system that is attached to the mule arms so that I can raise and lower the deck without having to redo the cables. I mowed my yard today and after several passes I noticed that the discharge side was cutting a little lower so I reached down from my seat and turned the turnbuckle and took up about 1/4 inch. That was all I needed and I didn't have to leave my seat!
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File Type: jpg DSCN0061.jpg (26.9 KB, 137 views)
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  #9  
Old 06-22-2011, 04:47 AM
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Cables seem to be a good idea. I'll get pics of the yard this afternoon. Grass has grown so the problems should really stick out.
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #10  
Old 06-23-2011, 04:55 AM
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Default Pics of both yards

Here ya go. The last 5 pics are of the neighbor's yard that I mow. It's basically level.
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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