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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
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The starter in my 782D decided it had enough about a week ago. The solenoid wouldn't stay engaged, and it drew so much current that it fried the key switch. I decided it was time to upgrade to the newer starter that's described in the Tech Library. I picked one up off of ebay for about $80 and installed it. A hole has to be drilled in the engine mounting plate so the battery cable stud clears the plate. The info in the Tech Library said to drill a 1 1/4" hole, IIRC, but I drilled a 61/64" hole (I wanted 1" but this was the closest I had) as the 1 1/4" hole is unnecessarily large, IMO. I didn't want to weaken that plate any more than I had to. No wiring changes were necessary for this; everything hooked up. I put one of those little rubber boots from an old wiring harness over the end of the positive cable so there would be no way for it to short against the engine mount.
100_8182 (Medium).jpg While I had the tractor half apart for the starter, I decided to upgrade the glow plugs as well, to new NGK Y-103V plugs, which are about $9 each at NAPA. Before upgrading the glow plugs, the tractor would need 20-25 seconds of glow plug, even at an ambient temperature of 85 degrees. The old glow plugs can't handle much current or voltage; the glow indicator in the dash is actually a resistor that knocks the current down to about 6A and allows only about 1.5V across the glow plugs. The new glow plugs can handle 12V (supposedly) and more current. I eliminated the glowing indicator from the circuit. Now the glow plugs get the full 12V and can draw up to about 51A, which means some additional circuitry is necessary since the key switch and wiring can't handle that. I installed an 82 series solenoid (actually a generic Ford solenoid that is basically identical but only about $6) opposite the fuel pump, using the fuel pump bolts since they have the same bolt hole spacing. I ran a new wire from the glow plug power terminal on the key switch to the "S" terminal on the solenoid, and an 8 gauge wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the solenoid, and another 8 gauge wire from the solenoid to the rearmost glow plug. If I were doing this again, I'd use 6 gauge wire- I had to drive all over town to find 8 gauge wire and terminal ends. 100_8183 (Medium).jpg 100_8184 (Medium).jpg Now the tractor will start easily with 5-7 seconds of glow plug. The new starter turns the engine over much faster, and I no longer have to worry about the battery being charged enough to start it. This should be much easier on batteries, and the tractor's anemic charging system won't have as much trouble recharging the battery after a cold start. If you have a diesel, I'd highly recommend this modification. I wish I had done this a long time ago. |
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#2
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Nice Matt, I am going to do the same thing to my 882.
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Dale 147-Restored___________________882 Diesel Hydro lift (not installed)___________44" Deck 48" Deck_______________________QA-42a/b Snowthrower Rear lift ________________________XMW cat-0 rear lift Model 2 tiller____________________12" cat-0 Brinly plow |
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#3
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I also have done it and what a difference it made. Really helped it. Hated how hard it was to remove the old starter though. Nice work Matt, and thats where I got my starter as well. Now after a years worth of plowdays and tractor shows, the solenoid is already starting act up. Not to happy about that.
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David in NC Wanted to buy Category 0 attachments and 2000 rpm implements
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#4
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Hi David.
Make sure to check your battery and ground wires.....AGAIN. My 882's reduction starter has acted (sounded) funny a few times, and the battery had gotten drained a bit. Gave it a good charge and things smoothed out again. My battery is only getting a marginal charge due to the fact that my belt is stretched out big time. I have the new one, I just haven't talked myself into pulling the engine out again...plus, I want to restore it here at some point, and that would be the time for the new belt and fan to go on. BTW, how do you like your Xtreme hitch? I was completely impressed by the quality and massive hunks of iron that came in my kit. That hitch will easily outlast the tractor. |
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#5
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Quote:
I really like that Xtreme hitch. Works really well and I think the construction quality is excellent.
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David in NC Wanted to buy Category 0 attachments and 2000 rpm implements
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#6
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Tractor supply has a lawn and garden solenoid for a reasonable price. Will that work for the glow plug upgrade? There's no ford dealer near here and the Napa part number shown on the other website comes up invalid.
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Adrian 2072 (789513) |
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#7
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Just about any starter solenoid would work. I think the one I used was a cheap generic one intended for an early 90's Ford Explorer.
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#8
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I did the upgrade yesterday. I used 6 guage wire. I don't think something is right though. It doesn't start any easier than before. The solenoid sometimes makes a whining /screeching noise when I heat the glow plugs. I wonder if it's just a cheapy solenoid. I grabbed it from the L & G section at autozone. All my connections are good but I'm going to double check the connection at the battery since it had a little acid gunk on the terminal that I forgot to clean off. The glow plugs get warm to the touch but they don't seem like they're getting hot enough. Before the upgrade, my battery draw would peg out on the discharge side, now it goes about 1/4 inch discharge with the needle, is that normal?
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Adrian 2072 (789513) |
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#9
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The reduced discharge is normal- remember that now the ammeter is only measuring the current draw of the solenoid, and not the glow plugs, as they are not going through the ammeter.
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#10
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Ok that makes sense now. I cleaned the connection real good at the battery and tinkered with a few other things. It works good now.
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Adrian 2072 (789513) |
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