1450 Rear End Broken bolt. (Tiller installation)

Jrobert · #1 03-06-2012, 12:03 AM

So today I was installing my new tiller attachment getting ready for spring. Removed the tongue hitch 3 bolts, and the two smaller bolts higher up on the cover. Put the gearbox on with new grade 8 3/8 16 1" bolts. Everything going good. Tried to reuse one of the smaller bolts on the most bottom hole. Got it on, one more little turn to tighten it up, snap. The bolt head sheared off.

Went and got the extractor kit. Drilled out the middle of the bolt. Put the extractor tool in. Gave that a turn. And snap. The extractor tool is now broken off in there. So now what? I put the gearbox on tightened it down, hoping it wouldnt leak. It has a slow leak. Now what?

Should I get some more reverse drill bits? What kind would drill through hardened steel? Continue trying?
Or...
Take the whole cover off, clean it out, use make a gasket and do it extra there, and put everything back together hoping that it wont leak?

Lesson learned here, replace all bolts with new ones. I was trying to save $1? ? ? NOT WORTH IT!

cub123 · #2 03-06-2012, 12:16 AM

I had this same issue once, it really stinks. I ended up drilling around the remains of the easy out to remove it and then drill and tap it. Being the bottom hole I think it will always be an issue with leakage + it puts extra stress on the remaining bolts. I gotten to where I won't even use an easy out unless the bolt moves with minimal torque.

Jrobert · #3 03-06-2012, 12:36 AM

Yeah, no more easy outs for me. This shouldn't have been too hard to get out. I wasn't going crazy tightening it. If I ever have this problem again, I am going to use the reverse bits. Right now I have the trouble spot soaking in some WD, not to mention leaking gear lube. Tomorrow I think I will try some reverse drill bits and hope to get lucky. Ill start small and work the way up. Hoping one will catch right and have the bolt come out.

While I'm at it im going to have to top that gear lube off. My manual says SAE 80. Looked for some at the store, all I saw was 80-90, or 80-125 I believe. Any better or worse then SAE 80?

I havent had to drill and tap anything yet. I think if all else fails Im going to take to a shop and let tap it. It seems like its quite difficult.

Oh by the way Cub, I have that same seat!

CADplans · #4 03-06-2012, 12:49 AM

Weld a nut to it and turn the broken stud out while it is still hot.

cub123 · #5 03-06-2012, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jrobert

Yeah, no more easy outs for me. This shouldn't have been too hard to get out. I wasn't going crazy tightening it. If I ever have this problem again, I am going to use the reverse bits. Right now I have the trouble spot soaking in some WD, not to mention leaking gear lube. Tomorrow I think I will try some reverse drill bits and hope to get lucky. Ill start small and work the way up. Hoping one will catch right and have the bolt come out.

While I'm at it im going to have to top that gear lube off. My manual says SAE 80. Looked for some at the store, all I saw was 80-90, or 80-125 I believe. Any better or worse then SAE 80?

I havent had to drill and tap anything yet. I think if all else fails Im going to take to a shop and let tap it. It seems like its quite difficult.

Oh by the way Cub, I have that same seat!

I should think that NAPA would have some SAE 80 for the tiller gearbox, might want to top off the hy trans in the rearend too after you get the bolt removed

I love that boat seat! Its very comfortable,and holds up quite well.

cub123 · #6 03-06-2012, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CADplans

Weld a nut to it and turn the broken stud out while it is still hot.

That's a great idea CADplans, I'll have to remember that next time.

Jrobert · #7 03-06-2012, 01:06 AM

I use Hy-tran for that right? Is there anything better ? From cub dealer?

Methos · #8 03-06-2012, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jrobert

I use Hy-tran for that right? Is there anything better ? From cub dealer?

You get hy-tran at the dealer.

I hope you get the broken bits out tomorrow. If your like a oil leak will drive you nuts!

cub123 · #9 03-06-2012, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jrobert

I use Hy-tran for that right? Is there anything better ? From cub dealer?

Yes for the hydrostatic rearend of the tractor get non synthetic hy trans from the cub cadet dealer

if you haven't changed the filter on the rearend you may as well get one of them while your at the cub shop.

mmzullo · #10 03-06-2012, 10:04 AM

That's why I use studs on the bottom 3 bolts. Because if you change hitches for what ever reason your not over stressing the threads in the cast iron. I have 2 tractors with stubs because the threads where getting worn out.
About the broken bolts. either the bolt bottomed out or the grade 8 bolts where over stressed. I've learned your better off having a bolt twist and stretch then snap off. Grade 8 are too hard they will snap before the stretch. left handed drills are the way to go or weld a not on the tip of stud. All are good ways to do it. Just jack it up as high as you can go so don't loose any hytran