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#1
06-20-2012, 03:44 PM
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prepping for paint
Can anyone tell me what the consenus is on paint prep. I will be using spray cans. I read where some get down to bare metal, and others will feather in chips and scratches down to bare metal if necessary. I understand prep is the most important part of a paint job.It seems to me alot of work to get to bare metal on the whole piece. Wouldn,t the original paint sanded and feathered be as good a base as bare metal,primed, then painted? Maybe one of you pro painters could explain the best procedure for my case. I don't have media blaster or paint gun. I'm on tight budget, thus the rattle cans. Also ,would my 104 have lead in the factory paint. Thanks in advance.
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck 1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck 2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck  As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction . 
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#2
06-20-2012, 04:32 PM
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Inspect the current condition of the existing paint. If it is not cracking, and peeling off in large areas, then leave it.
Use 220 grit sand paper to feather out any scratches, and then use rattle can self ecthing primer anywhere you have bare metal. You do not need to primer everything. Once the primer drys, flatten it out with some 400 grit, then use red scotch brite pads (600 grit) to go over everything. After that use a quick & clean, solvent based product to give the surface one final cleaning. (laquer thinner can be used in a pinch.) Then apply paint.
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#3
06-20-2012, 07:38 PM
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Sometimes you have to watch, there will be no need to open up good sealed paint. Maybe 180 grit for the stubborn rust spots. I do alot of wet sanding too.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES
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#4
06-20-2012, 07:53 PM
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remember it will only look as good as the body work / prep.
paint is just a color and will show all . but your just useing rattle cans so dont exspect a show finish.
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Doug Original , 100 , 125 , 582     West Central Ohio Farmall & Cub Cadet Club https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/226681087497199/
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#5
06-20-2012, 09:20 PM
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paint
MWShaw, Johncub7172, and 4SPEED, Thank you all for the info. I'm mainly trying to save the 104 from getting worse, till I can afford to media blast and get a professional paint job. It will definitely look better. MWShaw, will follow your directions. I'll try to get some photos in the near future. Thanks again fellas. Chris
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck 1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck 2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction .
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#6
06-20-2012, 09:24 PM
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I'm not much help but, any inconsistencies that you can feel will show up in the paint. If you can feel it sand and sand again.
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Nroakes Cub Cadet 3206 Kubota AWD garden tractor GR2000 Allis chalmers B112 Bolens GT23 with P.S and hydro blade One big Green tractor Always looking for more projects!
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#7
06-21-2012, 08:45 AM
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paint
@ cubguy , thanks for the advice .
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck 1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck 2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction .
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