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#1
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Is there a consensus on weather fall or spring is the best time to change oil and filters on equipment. I have always done my Briggs v-twin LT's in the spring because mice like to build nest under the shroud during the winter. I have Castrol 10W-30 and Fram PH3614 filters on both Briggs engines and believe that filter would fit the Kohler CH but suspect that's not what most of you use.
Cannon |
#2
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I assume you're not using the tractor in the winter. Fall is better, finish off the season, change the oil and filter, stabilize the gas or drain it, fog the engine, etc. I'm not sure I understand what the mice have to do with when you do the change?
I recommend you buy the correct Kohler filter from one of the parts suppliers. They are cheap enough and you don't have to wonder about all the cross-match details. In any case I'd suggest you get away from using Fram filters in anything.
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1864 w/48" deck, 2084 w/54" deck + 54" blade, 3204 w/48" deck |
#3
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Cannon
Here at the shop we use only air cooled oil and factory filters. The command likes to use oil and it has hydrlic lifters, they recomand 10 30 in it. The air cooled oil is higher in zink to help cool the cylinder. Where the oil you buy at auto zone ect is ok but when your running its at about 195 your air cooled eng will run close to 300 when mowing. Your doing a good pratice of checking for mice, they will nest in the eng and block the cooling fins and over heat the eng and ruin it. |
#4
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I have never heard of air cool oil, but it makes sense. What brand do you use? Thanks for the tip.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#5
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I use the Cub Cadet Low Ash Oil available at the dealer or from on-line suppliers. It is formulated to keep deposits down that form from using oil designed for automobiles. I find it especially helpful to keep the valves from sticking.
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#6
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Here is what my local Hustler dealer carries. I think it runs about $60 a case out the door. I can't find the Kohler 30 wt anywhere near me so this is what I use. As Vince said it has a higher zink content.
I have used the Kohler 10w-30 from TSC in my Command engines.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#7
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I removed the muffler shield and air filter to try to see if there was any air obstruction. I was able to see the flywheel on one side so I used an air nozzle to blow the other side but never saw any nest trash. Since I have good air flow coming past the heads I am assuming there are no nest. I put the grill and hood back on yesterday after letting the paint dry a few days. I spent a while trying to get the hood adjusted so it hit right on the back but never got it perfect. haven't changed the oil yet so I may pick up some made for air cooled engines. Thanks
Cannon |
#8
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Looking good, I have a 1863 that was my dads. They are very good machines. The last of the Real Cub Cadets IMO.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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