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#1
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alright cub guys i think i am missing something here. my auger seems to move about an inch back and forth. i have a couple pics may someone can tell me what is wrong here thanks!!
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#2
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The bearings have locking collars to hold it in place. Align the drive chain and tighten the set screws.
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift.
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#3
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I pulled out the screws and put them back in as tight as i could and the auger still slids. Now with that being said each bearing has two holes BUT each one is missing a screw like the threads are bad in 1 hole on each.
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#4
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Check and see if the shaft is worn. You may also need to replace the bearings. Maybe you can put some spacers between the impeller and the bearings to keep it centered?
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#5
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I forgot to add that it has twist lock collars, you have to slide it over the cam shaped end on the bearing and twist and tighten it, your bearing keepers may also be allowing the bearing to move side to side a little. The one hole in the collar is blind.
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift.
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#6
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I was thinking the same thing just to get by for now.
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#7
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Ok that makes some sense about why the holes look stripped. Question about the twist of the bearing. i can turn the collar on both does that mean i need to keep turning them til they stop and then lock down that set screw?
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#8
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Well, if you loosen it and pull it away from the bearing you can see better how it works, it shouldn't stop, but will start to spin the bearing( if you look at the outside you will see it start spinning when its locking in) then tighten the screw. At this point it should not move in and out of the bearings, if it does, The shaft is worn like sam said, or maybe the threads in the collar are messed up and the set screw isnt going in far enough to tighten against the shaft.
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift.
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#9
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Ya need to put a punch in the blind hole in the collar and hit it with a hammer rotating it as described below,to secure it tightly.
The collar has a counter bore that is eccentric and the bearing has a step that is eccentric. they mate together causing the two to bind up on the shaft, when turned. That is what secures the shaft to the bearing. Now the blind hole in the eccentric locking collar is really for a spanner wrench to go into, but most folks don't have one. By design, the eccentric collar is to be secured in the direction it will be turning. By doing this, the collar will actually continue to tighten its grip to the shaft and the cam of the bearing. This type of locking device has one the fullest contacts to the shaft and has the least chance of loosening. see example of the bearing on the right, forget the left one |
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#10
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Thanks guys you all have been a great help!! i will report back when i'm done !!
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