1050 clutch Fixed

[jimbob200521]

I purchased a 1050 with a new clutch recently but the guy didn't replace any bearings. Well, long story short, I adjusted the clutch so it had about 1/4 - 1/2 inch peddle play with it and took it for a short drive to test it out. Got back, pushed the clutch, nothing, I kept right on going. I was able to pop it out of gear to stop but investigated the smoke and found this:



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So my question is, I need part #20 on this diagram, correct? The throw out bearing? Is there anything else I need to complete this repair and have the ol' girl up and running?

Please help me give new life to this 1050!!

http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/s...0-A/0011400005

[Sam Mac]

Looks like 12, 13, 15 and 20 to me, may be more after you get it apart

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Looks like 12, 13, 15 and 20 to me, may be more after you get it apart

I thought the same thing but the spring would appear to be be alright, any way to tell for sure? And I know how to tare things down and get to it, but do I need any kind of bearing presser to get these parts on? I believe I could do it all by hand but want to make sure.

[rweaver]

yes and sit down 15 is not cheap any more I also saw a wire thru the roll pin thru the driveshaft makes me wonder if the hole is wore

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by rweaver

yes and sit down 15 is not cheap any more I also saw a wire thru the roll pin thru the driveshaft makes me wonder if the hole is wore

The hole shouldn't be wore, that's a new roll pin. The guy that installed it also builds Cub Cadets for pullers and says he does that will all the roll pins out of habit (for what that's worth) so I'm not too worried about that.

As for #15, it came up as $41.04 compared to the throw out bearing (#20) at $50.97.

[rweaver]

the teaser spring over time loses its tension so when we have a clutch apart we replace it they are about 6 or 8 not sure now they help with shifting

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by jimbob200521

The hole shouldn't be wore, that's a new roll pin. The guy that installed it also builds Cub Cadets for pullers and says he does that will all the roll pins out of habit (for what that's worth) so I'm not too worried about that.

As for #15, it came up as $41.04 compared to the throw out bearing (#20) at $50.97.

Bearings can be bought at a parts store, or a bearing company. Don't pay $50 bucks for it. But, DO get a name brand bearing. I.E. Timken, SKF, BCA

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Bearings can be bought at a parts store, or a bearing company. Don't pay $50 bucks for it. But, DO get a name brand bearing. I.E. Timken, SKF, BCA

do you have a recommendation for a bearing thus would work with my machine? From the picture of the part, it looks like its got a sleeve integrated with the bearing so I want to make sure I get the right part.

Edit: Did a little reading and it seems as though I could re-use my center hub and grease fitting, that seems to be what makes the cost go up for the part. Still though, could anyone recommend a specific good bearing to use for this?

[jimbob200521]

Well I just got the compression spring, release lever, and spiral pin ordered, now I just need to figure out what bearing I need. Would anybody have an idea of what bearing I need?

Edit: I just said the hell with trying to save a few bucks, I went to the local cub cadet dealer and ordered a new lever release, compression spring, throw out bearing, and a couple spiral pins. supposed to be in store next week so looks like I get to start tearing into her in the mean time :-P I'll be sure to post pics of the project as I do it, if there's anyone here that likes pics, that is

[Sam Mac]

Take the old bearing, press the insert out and then take the bearing to a bearing store and find a replacement.