Looking for the best option

fourinchdragslicks · #1 10-17-2013, 08:20 PM

Last night an 1882 followed me home, She's not much of a looker, but has a lot of parts i was after. I bought it for parts for my project quietline (dropping in a different engine, so the cv driveshaft is a big deal) I was thinking about dome of the other parts on this cub and found myself wondering about parts being interchangable (well at least bolt up) and which are the better parts to use. I am going to use the cv joint shaft on the project tractor, but I dont know about differences between the hydrostats (pros/cons) and the rearends (cast vs. aluminum, pros/cons)

Input is appreciated.

fourinchdragslicks · #2 10-17-2013, 09:45 PM

Also, I havn't had much of a chance to compare yet, but any opinions on front axle durability between a late model quietline and an 1882? If I remember correctly, My 1650 is a '79, so it should also have the 1" spindles?

Sam Mac · #3 10-18-2013, 08:10 AM

How about some pics of the 1882. I don't think a lot of the 1882 is going to be useable in the QL. Just my 2 cents but I would save the Super before the QL.

fourinchdragslicks · #4 10-18-2013, 09:41 AM

I will have to wait till I get back to the shop to take some pics. The QL is a project that I had decided to do, just because it will be a challenge and therefore fun. I like the older metal. I had one bad pic of the 1882 to go on before I went out to look at it, and was a little torn as to what I was going to do. The QL is a base for a liquid cooled diesel conversion (not easy, I know) in the end it will be more of a super QL (power steering, cat 0 3pt, aux hydraulics, whatever else that may be added to it)

While the metal is fixable on the 1882, the plastic is not. Well, it may be, but that is not the kind of work I have any desire to get into. I already have the additional metal parts to stretch the QL, and I don't want to track down a complete replacement nose for the 1882.

I guess I should have started this thread a little differently.

fourinchdragslicks · #5 10-18-2013, 09:45 AM

Given the choices below, which are the better options (with any justification if possible)

su15 hydro or whatever is in the 1882? (from a previous conversation they may be the same, just with a different input shaft)

the cast iron rear end from a QL, or the cast aluminum one from the 1882?

front axle from the QL or from the super? (I do plan on putting the super power steering on, maybe not right away, it will go on the super QL)

Sam Mac · #6 10-18-2013, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fourinchdragslicks

Given the choices below, which are the better options (with any justification if possible)

su15 hydro or whatever is in the 1882? (from a previous conversation they may be the same, just with a different input shaft)

the cast iron rear end from a QL, or the cast aluminum one from the 1882?

front axle from the QL or from the super? (I do plan on putting the super power steering on, maybe not right away, it will go on the super QL)

I agree that the plastic nose on the Cyclops series is a problem this is my answer to that issue. Simple and cheap. Most of the time the damage to the plastic is in the front and you can salvage the hood and the rear of the side panels. When the day comes that the plastic on my 2182 gives up it will get this treatment. Just something for you to think about. Also I think you would be better off with the front axle out of something like an 1864 if you want power steering, I think the big axle from the Super is too tall. The Pump on the Super has different gearing so you can’t just swap it into the rear on a QL without also swapping the reduction gear in the case.

Sam Mac · #7 10-18-2013, 10:04 AM

You may want to take a look at this thread for some ideas
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=8457

fourinchdragslicks · #8 10-18-2013, 10:27 AM

As always Sam Mac, your input is valuable. I guess now my decision on the rearend is going to be on the durability of the aluminum vs. the iron and the pressure/flow rate off the hydro (may or may not be worth). Aluminum with the super hydro and cv shaft (much easier to drop in) or the cast iron with QL hydro tapped for the cv adapter (or a custom adapter to use the QL spirol pin hole)

I don't know how the po did it, but the plastic is not cracked for the most part, but there are deep gouges and chunks out of the side panels and hood, the nose is not in bad shape, on the outside, but the mounting points have stress cracks (reasonably expected), there is no grill, and the headlight assembly is in bad shape.

Where did those parts come from in that pic?

Sam Mac · #9 10-18-2013, 10:52 AM

Just sent you a PM

Mike McKown · #10 10-18-2013, 08:23 PM

Sam Mac gave me a good tip a few months back about how to repair those plastic front ends. He said to use construction adhesive!

It is close to the right color and it works. I've fixed quite a few plastic pieces since he told me that. Mayby not fixed factory new but fixed where they're usable.

If the pins are broken off on the side panels which is common, just use a spring setup similar to what was used on the Quiet lines to pull the panels in against the front nose. Works good.