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#1
11-21-2013, 04:22 PM
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An observation on paint removal.
I have been bead blasting the painted parts off of my O and have found that the cast iron front nose is very hard to get the paint off. I believe it is the cast iron itself being porous that holds the old paint in place. Also I found it was primed a rust red where the steel parts were not. I believe they primed the cast iron to be able to smooth the surface for a smoother final finish to the paint.
Anyone else noticed this? John
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Original, 109, a pair of 122s, 124 with power lift, 124 with creeper, 126, 147, 1050, 1200, two 1250s, 1450 Dual Stick , another 1450, two 1650s, Gannon Earthcavator, Haban sickle bar and a bunch of other things you either pull, push or hang underneath. 
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#2
11-21-2013, 04:30 PM
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When I blasted my original grille the ain't came off fairly easy. But I also used aircraft remover to get most of it off and what it didn't take off I blasted but my entire originLs base layer was a red primer also mine was pretty flakey. Maybe your paint was just in better shape then mine I don't know. But using the stripper sped up the process by a lot
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No more cubs. But never fear there will be more     
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#3
11-21-2013, 04:50 PM
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I was using Aircraft stripper also. The grill was tedious to say the least. Only used the stripper on the nose. Maybe the blaster was taking off the primer with the paint on the other pieces and didn't notice it.
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Original, 109, a pair of 122s, 124 with power lift, 124 with creeper, 126, 147, 1050, 1200, two 1250s, 1450 Dual Stick , another 1450, two 1650s, Gannon Earthcavator, Haban sickle bar and a bunch of other things you either pull, push or hang underneath.
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#4
11-21-2013, 04:54 PM
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I would venture to say this is what is under the paint....
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#5
11-21-2013, 06:35 PM
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I was sand blasting a few parts of my 122 just yesterday and I used the black sand for the cast iron it seemed to work better than the $4 stuff but I used the $4 stuff for the sheet metal and it did the job on the paint easily thr rust took a little bit more.
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122 PTO, lift, deck, weights, and chains clist pick 123 headlights no motor came with the 122 Stx38 free acquisition but its the wrong color works great though Free craftsman gt 17hp Briggs Intek hydro
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#7
11-21-2013, 07:36 PM
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I was using glass beads. That is what my friend uses in it. He has a sand blaster but it is easier to use the glass bead blaster.
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Original, 109, a pair of 122s, 124 with power lift, 124 with creeper, 126, 147, 1050, 1200, two 1250s, 1450 Dual Stick , another 1450, two 1650s, Gannon Earthcavator, Haban sickle bar and a bunch of other things you either pull, push or hang underneath.
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#8
11-21-2013, 10:42 PM
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Used Black Diamond blasting sand on my 100, came right off.
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Make the best of each day , Todd  Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! 
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#9
11-22-2013, 06:37 AM
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I blasted all my snowblower parts with silicon carbide media. It's just what we use at work. I have yet to see this media and 90 PSI have trouble stripping anything.
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1450 w/ 44gt deck, 1572 w/ 50C deck, 450 snowblower.
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