Is a brake overhaul due?

inspectorudy · #1 01-31-2014, 12:50 AM

Ok, after my snow plowing days are behind me I realized that my 1811 brake pedal does not return all of the way. I adjusted the two turnbuckles as far as they would go but no help. The springs do not ever really get any tension on them when the pedal is fully depressed. What should I check next?

Sam Mac · #2 01-31-2014, 07:14 AM

Well if the springs that connect to the brakes don't pull the pads in contact with the rotors it's probably time for some new pads. If the pedal is not returning the return spring #11 may have gone AWOL.

inspectorudy · #3 01-31-2014, 09:54 AM

I didn't realize that there was a third return spring. The two outside springs are still intact but don't seem to ever tighten up when the brake pedal is all the way down. The brakes do work but the pedal only returns about half way. Is the best way to get to the third spring through the tranny cover or the bottom? BTW, thanks for the diagram.

Sam Mac · #4 01-31-2014, 09:58 AM

Take the tunnel cover off to get at the return spring. You probably need new pads anyway if the two springs on the outside don't tighten up when you push the pedal down. Take a look at the pads and see how thick the lining is.

cuber · #5 01-31-2014, 10:40 AM

It also helps if all the pivot points are lubricated, especially where the big brake pedal rod holes are in the frame

inspectorudy · #6 01-31-2014, 10:41 AM

Sam Mac, I went to the CC parts page and they only list the 19 and 20 kit on the diagram you sent me. They do not show just brake pads. Do you know how to find the correct part number for an 1811 for just the pads?

J-Mech · #7 01-31-2014, 10:44 AM

Sam is right about spring #11.
I also was never happy with the brakes on my 1811. Pads were fine, but I didn't like how tight I had to run the turnbuckles. I had no idea if the springs on it were original, so I just replaced them with some from the hardware store that were shorter. Took care of the problem. Just FYI, when the pedal is up, the linkage should be slack, or it will hold the brakes on.

Sam Mac · #8 01-31-2014, 10:47 AM

Rudy

Just checked, the pads are NLA so you will need to reline them yourself. Not a hard job to do it. There is a how to in the tech section.

inspectorudy · #9 01-31-2014, 11:38 AM

Thank you both for your info. It makes me feel just a little better to know that I am not totally dumb that I could not find the pads. It also is good to know about the slack springs when the pedal is up because it didn't look possible to have them taut unless something inside the brakes had broken. Patton does have some brakes for Cubs but he doesn't say what models they are for.

inspectorudy · #10 01-31-2014, 05:29 PM

I found the problem with the brake pedal not returning to the up position. I looked at all of the individual parts and tried to see where it might be binding and shot lube into all of those spots. Didn't help. Then I decided to disconnect the two brake springs that go to the calipers. NO HELP. So from that point there was only two big shafts left that could be the culprit. I then disconnected the pedal link under the tractor that connects the pedal shaft to the brake actuator shaft. The pedal flew to the upright position as I pulled the link out. It was the brake shaft that runs from side to side that the brake rods are attached to that was binding. I took it off and discovered that there are two bushings, one on each end, that will slide into the middle of the shaft. I cleaned and lubed them and that was it. The pedal slams back up if I take my foot off of the pedal now. I do need to re-pad the two brakes however. I'll take a look at the info Sam sent me and if anyone else has done it let me know the tricks that you found.