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#1
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Don B, USAF 1962-1968, Ft. Wayne, IN |
#2
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For just that reason I love my super with individual wheel brakes. Just a touch when turning starts the turn and keeps my rig on track. Only problem I have is it has been so cold here most of the winter my boots are almost too big to hit the inside (left) brake without also hitting the other one.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. |
#3
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Try loading the front tires. It will probably be not enough but might help. Try to use a 25 lbs lifting plate on the sub frame up front. Might fit. I only have that problem with the 1811 when the snow is wet.
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#4
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I have that problem from time to time. It tends to only happen in heavy snow. I just corrected my problem by plowing in straight lines only besides, whenever I turn while plowing I end up running over my snow piles.
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I lost track of what I own a long time ago! |
#5
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Went from old/nearly bald front turfs to ags on the front, what a difference.
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#6
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I heard of a guy who let enough air out of the front tires to wrap them with a length of #40 roller chain around them and then pumped the tires back up tight against the chain to hold it in place.
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#7
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I would think that the heart of your problem lies in surface area of the tire touching. If you are running narrow tri ribs, then there really isn't much surface area touching. If you change to wide front tires, then that will help with your turning/gripping.
Another possibility is to just lay a sandbag/bag of water softener salt over the front hood, being careful not to obstruct/touch your exhaust or dent in your hood. WARNING: I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS NEXT METHOD. I JUST THOUGHT OF IT ![]() ![]() This one depends on your fabrication skills. You could also get some threaded rod to replace your bolts that hold your front rims on--1/2" (?). Put your wheels/rims on, washer, threaded rod followed by two nuts to hold rim in place. Then fabricate a 1" diameter rod (6-8" long) with tapped thread O.C. at one end and a hole drilled in the cross section of rod, about 1/2" from other end of the rod for a lynch pin. Screw the fabricated rod onto the threaded rod that you cut to length. Then you can buy/find barbell weights from the store or find in a garage sale--the little 5 lbs. weights would be ideal because they are thinner than the plastic, sand filled ones. You should be able to put about 5 or 6 on each rim. Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. ![]() |
#8
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When plowing with my O, I pull back on the lift handle just enough to transfer the plow weight to the front tires and it turns every time. A hydro lift wouldn't have the same "feel", but it would still work. For the number of times I am pushing while turning, this is good enough for me.
Bill |
#9
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Don B, USAF 1962-1968, Ft. Wayne, IN |
#10
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Yeah , the turfs were miserable, but Ags on the front made all the difference for me.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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