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#1
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Well time has come . I need to split my 105 to replace the cork gasket for the charge pump. I have bought all the gaskets I think I need including the springs for the trunnion. What else should I look at or for when I do this ? I must say I am not looking forward to this but, it needs to be done. I mow with it so there is no better time then now.
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105(sold)782x3 &124(sold) . Lawn sweeper yard cart. Homemade 3 point hitch narrow frame sleeve hitch spring assist ih snowplows . Rear weight bracket and suitcase weights.Lots of extra parts 😀. |
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#2
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Chris
The cork gasket goes between the complete pump and the trans case. The charge pump has an O-ring. What's leaking and how far you want to go determines what seals and gaskets you'll need. It has a seal on the input shaft to the charge pump, an O-ring between the charge pump and the pump, a seal on the shaft that comes out of the back, 2 trunnion shaft seals, a gasket between the two main parts of the pump and the cork gasket. Suggest that you download the service manual if you have not already done so. It will give you a good idea what you're getting into. ![]() link for your manual. http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Service%20Manual.pdf
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#3
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Thanks Sam . I was alittle off on the cork gasket location. I have the service manual already bought and in hand.Is there any easy way to split the tractor ? I am going pretty much right from the manual for advice.
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105(sold)782x3 &124(sold) . Lawn sweeper yard cart. Homemade 3 point hitch narrow frame sleeve hitch spring assist ih snowplows . Rear weight bracket and suitcase weights.Lots of extra parts 😀. |
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#4
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Chris
I've never done a 105. The pump will be pretty much the same as all the Sundstrand's. I'm sure some of the NF guys will jump in about the best way to do it.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#5
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There's really nothing to pulling the rear out of a 105. Disconnect the linkages and driveshafts and put some jackstands under the floorboard braces, put a jack under the rear end and remove the bolts, it should roll out real nice. I had a 103 apart a few months backs and I had the rearend out and back in in about 45 minutes.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#6
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Thanks guys. I just priced having it done at my cc dealer . He said about 5 hrs worth of work at $60.00 an hour labor. I think i can do it myself for much cheaper. I already have most of the gaskets and seals.
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105(sold)782x3 &124(sold) . Lawn sweeper yard cart. Homemade 3 point hitch narrow frame sleeve hitch spring assist ih snowplows . Rear weight bracket and suitcase weights.Lots of extra parts 😀. |
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#7
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Quote:
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#8
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Much cheaper, unless your paying yourself?
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I lost track of what I own a long time ago! |
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#9
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i was thinking the same thing.
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105(sold)782x3 &124(sold) . Lawn sweeper yard cart. Homemade 3 point hitch narrow frame sleeve hitch spring assist ih snowplows . Rear weight bracket and suitcase weights.Lots of extra parts 😀. |
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#10
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Yeah but how long it will sit before it's being worked on? The place my dad works at had him repair something last week that's had a repair tag on it from August. The last time I had to get a warranty repair on my push mower (leaky carb) I took it in December on purpose.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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