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#1
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I been a lurking member on this site for a while. I got tired of the poor head lights on my 1512, the very narrow beam. Also that the alternator can't keep up with the PTO on and the headlights and my battery runs down. So I started watching ebay for some of these Grote LED tractor direct replacement head lights. Well snow plowing is so much better.
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/album.php?albumid=930 |
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#2
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Great job, and it looks very cool.
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3 original cubs 1512 diesel Ingersoll 3012 John deere 855 |
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#3
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Forgot to mention, the lights pull 1.4 amps each.
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#4
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Nice work, they look great!
Something tells me they may just be a masking an electrical problem. Your alt should have no trouble keeping up with the pto and stock headlights. Sorry to be a downer. Bill |
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#5
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Your right Bill. Plus, that may also be the reason they weren't very bright. The stock headlights are actually very bright. They are the same lamps that their "bigger brothers" used.
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#6
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The LED's look good. Nice job!
I'm on the bandwagon with the others. My diesels, as well as gas cubs, run fine with the PTO and lights engaged. The lights burn nice for me, so I'd do a diagnostic check of the charging system. Did the stock lights burn brighter at WOT, or dim the whole time?
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Josh Diesel Cub Cadets........... |
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#7
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I wouldn't say the stock head lights were dim, just the pattern was short and narrow in front of tractor. Now if I were mowing with the lights on the discharge indicator would be to the left of center. Now with the LED's it mostly stays on center. I replaced the alternator / generator last year when it completely sized up. I am thinking it may be time for the voltage regulator which is still original. Is there a recommendation for battery for the diesel tractors, I have the largest lawn and garden battery I could find which starts the tractor just fine since added the gear reduction starter & current limiting glow plugs. I replaced the key switch a few years ago as well, I think the previous owner had this tractor stored outside a lot and it had some quirks. Thanks for the input.
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#8
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OEM PAR36 are 35w halogen seal beam, you should see the meter stay in the charge zone (right side) using them. A good 15A stator or alternator can produce 180W (V X I = P) A PTO need about 4 amp or 48W so even if you add a pair of 50W halogen taking 100W (8.33A) you still have 32W (2.67A) left to charge the battery.
I agree with Bill and Jonathan , you must have an electric issue.
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Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap) |
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#9
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From what I've read on here, everyone says to get the biggest battery that fits in the box. Sounds like yours starts up just fine with the upgrades you've already done, I don't think you'll gain anything from a larger battery. Check the battery voltage a full throttle, should be 13.5ish. A bad regulator ground can cause it to malfunction, so check the grounds before calling it dead. Your probably already aware, but there is a link to the engine manual in the tech section. I'm sure it has regulator testing procedures in it, my phone won't let me verify.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4660 Bill |
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#10
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I agree with everything you said, except this. Should be over 14. Like 14.4 or so. All else is spot on!
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