CC 1811 hydraulic lift valve is leaking

shore · #1 03-16-2015, 12:42 AM

Hello. My 1st post here on OCC. The hydraulic lift control valve is leaking out the bottom on my 1811. I am 80% sure its not coming from the hydraulic line fittings. I think its leaking around the shaft in between the hydraulic lines. It has a phillips head screw sticking out of it. Does any one know if there is a complete rebuild kit available for one of these? Or if they are even rebuild-able. I tried to find a complete new valve from a couple of Cub Cadet parts Webs. And they all say the same thing= NO LONGER AVAILABLE. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

J-Mech · #2 03-16-2015, 01:27 AM

Hello and

Yes, your valve is rebuild-able. It can be disassembled. There are just a few o-rings inside that need replaced. You will have to match them up from a o-ring kit. You can get them from most auto parts stores, some hardware stores, or your local CC dealer, IH or other equipment dealer. Not really very much to them.

yeeter · #3 03-16-2015, 09:05 AM

Am sure you can find one these for a reasonable price (PM me if not, Im almost certain I have one I will never use)

Having said that, much better to rebuild as J-mech suggests. Then you know what you have. Its a pain to get in and out, so may as well go all the way when you pull it.

shore · #4 03-16-2015, 10:20 AM

Thank you for the replies guys. Ive got the rear axle, and hydro pump out of the 1811 right now. The cork gasket between the pump and axle housing was getting a bad case of the drips also. Just waiting to get my parts back in the mail so I can get that project done. When I get that all done, I will fix the lift valve. Thanks.

Oak · #5 03-17-2015, 12:04 AM

My 1811 was leaking too. They are pretty easy to rebuild. Mark where it mounts on the steering column to make reassembly easier. Here is what they look like but yours may be different because they did use different brands IIRC.

DSC01907.jpg

There is an O ring for each hydraulic fittings (the 4 on the right) and 2 for the valve.

Just be careful you don't damage the new rings when you are reassembling it.

shore · #6 03-17-2015, 12:24 AM

Thank you Oak! I was curious as to what that center shaft looks like when it is removed from the unit. That is the same one that is on my 1811. My goal is to have ZERO leaks When I get the rear axle project, and this lift valve done. HY-Trans fluid is WAAAY to expensive to have leaking back out on to my garage floor. Thanks again!

shore · #7 03-27-2015, 11:27 AM

I got my 1811 back together finally. All the leaks fixed. Now i have another question. Does anyone know if a u-joint kit is available to replace the coupling assembly, bushing ball, flex discs, and arm coupling between the hydro pump and drive shaft? The bushing ball (brand new) keeps working its way out of the coupling assembly on the hydro shaft, and walks up the drive shaft until it hits the arm coupling. Ive taken the drive shaft back apart once already, since I got the leaks fixed, to put the bushing ball back inside the coupling on the hydro shaft. Now it did it again last night after a test drive. So its just riding on the d-shaft not doing any good

.
The bushing ball and both flex discs are brand new. The drive shaft is in good condition also. I don't notice any wobble in the drive shaft at idle or full throttle.

J-Mech · #8 03-27-2015, 12:06 PM

Outside of doing a conversion to a CV shaft from a Cyclops.... no, there isn't a u-joint kit.

If the ball bushing keeps coming out of the coupling on the hydro, you need to replace the coupling, or find a good used one. It isn't holding the ball bushing in place because it is worn out, probably from the old one spinning inside the housing. This is a repairable condition.

Oak · #9 03-27-2015, 06:30 PM

Yep, what J said. You should have to use a punch to drive the new ball bushing into the hub so it sounds like yours is worn out.
The rag joint system works well if everything else is in good shape. The CV system is better but you will prolly have to spend several hundred to upgrade to it.

shore · #10 03-27-2015, 07:10 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I took it apart AGAIN this afternoon. OAK, you mentioned i should have had to use a punch to put the new ball bushing in. It only took pushing the new bushing with my thumbs to get it in the coupling. I thought that was normal. I kinda feel like this

with this 1811. I fix one thing and then i find something else that needs replacing. I sold a good reliable Cub Cadet 102 to buy this. I'm beginning to think I should have kept the 102. For now, the old 1811 is going to have to sit. I'm all out of cash for parts for it. Thanks guys.