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#1
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I just created an abortion. Bought what is supposed to be genuine Cub Cadet from someone on ebay. It looks like the real deal. It give no clue on the can. I assumed it was alkyd enamel and looked up what to use with same on the internet. It is in the mid 70s today so I choose VM&P naptha. At first everything seemed ok, but I thought it needed a bit more thinner and when I added more it separated into an absolute mess. So would anyone hazard a guess what is going on here? I guess it is clear I have something other than alkyd enamel.
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#2
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You used the wrong stuff.
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#3
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Quote:
![]() Are we to assume "paint"..??
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#4
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post some pics.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#5
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I'm assuming he bought this or the yellow? BTW if it's OE why does it say year range is so vast when our paint code chart lists different shades of whites by serial number? This is from one of our sponsors too
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUB-CADET-OR...item3f4a70a4bf
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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#6
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Reducer is used with enamel, seems it is likely enamel. Thinner will make it curdle.
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#7
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Quote:
"Thinner" is kind of a generic term. Lacquer-thinner, Naptha, Mineral Spirits are all "thinners". Reducer is for specific paints. There are different ones for different temps, and some are also activators. They actually "activate" the paint. Once mixed in, the paint starts it's curing process and the pot has a life (usually rated in hours) where as thinners are just thinners. Adding them doesn't start a chemical process. |
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#8
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Don't know how old the paint is, but as a kid we used to thin enamel with Lacquer thinner and it worked well, but you cannot thin lacquer base paint with
mineral spirits/paint thinner/turpentine. just an old rule of thumb. |
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#9
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Since there's been no pic posted yet I suppose I will just guess. Naptha is kind of oily and since you say it separated I'm betting its full of fish eye which is what happens when the paint job is contaminated with oil or silicone.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#10
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Yeah Some pics would be nice. It should say on the can what to use to thin/reduce it and what hardner to use. I've used van sickle and it calls for their hardner and naptha. Other makers use different solvents to thin their paints. Re-read the can it should tell you what to use. Post some pics a picture of the paint can and reducer and hardner would be nice. I'd say you used the wrong stuff to reduce it.
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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