Cub Cadet 123 - No Movement

jwakeman · #1 04-05-2015, 08:59 PM

Hey all, new member - so go easy on me!

Just got ahold of a 123 with a Johnson 10 loader. Pretty excited - engine runs pretty well but body is in need of quite a bit of work. Hydro does not want to move tractor in either direction.

Bought from the local FFA, they said it was driving fine and one day just stopped - has been parked outside since (1-2 years ago).

First inkling after doing some online searching was the Hydro relief valves, so we pulled them and currently soaking in PB blaster. They are the newer 'automatic' kind. Is there a way to externally test these valves for proper movement without going right to rebuilding them?

Pending that fails, where should I look next? Since it has been sitting outside a while I assume a trans oil flush / filter is also in order.

Thanks for any help you can provide!!

Joe

olds45512 · #2 04-05-2015, 09:16 PM

if it just suddenly stopped thats sounds more like a broken pin in the driveshaft.

Mcamp · #3 04-05-2015, 09:18 PM

Check for a sheared spirol pin in driveshaft or a broken or missing drive pin at the coupler on the back of the engine.

Cub Cadet 123 · #4 04-05-2015, 09:19 PM

Congratulations...the 123 is the first of the hydrostatic transmissions and a very solid tractor! It would be any one of these three, and if it was mine, I would do all three of them:

1st: Change the hydrostatic filter on the underside of the tractor toward the rearend.

2nd: Remove the rearend cover and drain/clean out the old gunk in the transmission.

If the unscrews (you may need a filter wrench to assist getting it off). When you replace it, clean the space around the fitting to insure a snug fit. Fill the new filter about 1/4 of the way full with HyTran hydraulic fluid. The Hytran has great water absorption properties that a lesser brand does not have.

The back transmission cover comes off. Be sure to have a large container/reservoir to catch all of the fluid/gunk that comes out (about 8 -10 quarts....sorry, I forget this one). Clean out with cleaner. I try to not use paper towels to prevent pieces from breaking off and causing a future clog. Replace the gasket (if a cub dealer is not close, you can purchase gasket material and make your own. Use gasket sealer on both sides, replace cover, torque bolts tight (Tech Section contains manuals for your cub cadet 123). Refill your transmission with Hytran until it overflows out the rear plug (again, an overflow drain pan would be needed).

Sorry, this is so long....Others will chime in with far more knowledge about this matter than I have. Great to have you as a member....especially with one of the finest cubs, the 123!

Once you get comfortable on the forum, please post some pics of your tractor and equipment!

Cub Cadet 123

Alvy · #5 04-05-2015, 09:41 PM

Great advice from all. Especially you Maxwell, no need for more "chimers" your explanation was very good.

cubby102 · #6 04-05-2015, 10:42 PM

Filter and fluid change should get you going. Check to see if the driveshaft is turning with the engine. If so see if the pump is turning as well. Good luck with it. One of my favorite models mine is in pretty sore shape. Good luck!

J-Mech · #7 04-05-2015, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

if it just suddenly stopped thats sounds more like a broken pin in the driveshaft.

I'll second this.

zippy1 · #8 04-05-2015, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

if it just suddenly stopped thats sounds more like a broken pin in the driveshaft.

Yup, sounds like the first thing to check.

Cub Cadet 123 · #9 04-06-2015, 12:07 AM

Ooooppsss, looked like we missed your question about relief valves. The steel ball inside of them should move freely in the automatic relief valves. That way, you do not have to rebuild them. I have used a paper clip unbent to free up the steel ball them before. Inspect the plastic and rubber rings on it to make sure they are in good shape. Also, make sure the hole at the top is not clogged. Hope you are back up and going soon!

Cub Cadet 123

jwakeman · #10 04-06-2015, 05:35 PM

Thanks for all the advice!

Here's an update. The valves seem to be fine, so we put them back. Fired the tractor up, and the drive shaft does spin into the trans. (someone along the way cut a big rectangular hole on the tunnel cover, so I can easily see top of that portion of the trans) This mean the pins are all fine?

Look at the back of the tractor, and can see the shaft on what looks like the back of the pump spinning as well.

Trans fluid/filter change next?