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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Engines > Kohler Engines

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  #1  
Old 08-13-2014, 09:23 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Default K321 tear-down help needed.

I am disassembling my K-321aqs engine to find the cause of its noise and power loss. The Kohler PDF is worse than a Haynes manual in my opinion, so I need a little help.
Can someone tell me what to watch for, do/not do, special tools, concerning the following disassembly steps? thanks!
I got the flywheel off already.
1. Crankshaft removal
2. Cam removal
3. Govenor removal, maintaining/setting govenor
4. Inspecting govenor
I'm guessing valve/tappet removal is straight forward.
Thanks again.
Rick
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  #2  
Old 08-13-2014, 09:59 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You say the manual you have is bad. Did you download it here? Can you not read it? Or are the pics just blurry? Or do you mean you don't understand what it says. The Kohler manual is really a pretty good service manual, if you are familiar with engines.......
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  #3  
Old 08-14-2014, 09:32 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Thanks Jonathan!
I downloaded the PDF here. The pictures are poor quality and the narrative seems too simplistic. I'm glad to hear you say it is a good manual! Maybe my questions will answer themselves as I proceed thru the tear-down.

Is there any trick to putting the governor back in correctly or is it obvious?

The manual says 285"#'s torque for the connecting rod with cap screws. The E-bay repair kit claims to use 260"#'s. Which is correct?

The E-bay kit also claims the connecting rod can easily be re-assembled incorrectly! Does anyone know what they are talking about?
Thanks again,
rick
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  #4  
Old 08-15-2014, 08:05 AM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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its easy put the rod cap on backwards. thee are 2 torques for the posilock nuts. 1st time use and second time use. there's also a torque if the rod has bolts.
inside the block the governor is very simple. all adjustments are external
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  #5  
Old 08-15-2014, 10:24 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickx View Post
Does anyone know what they are talking about?
Thanks again,
rick
Yeah, some of us do.
Your pretty safe taking info from dvogtvpe and I (and anyone here on the site).

dvogtvpe has the info covered. I will add, when buying aftermarket parts, I go with whatever the instructions that came with the part say. Otherwise, refer to the manual.
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  #6  
Old 08-15-2014, 11:11 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Thanks dvogtvpe and Jonathan,
I think I know enough to strip the block next week and check out a couple machine shops.
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  #7  
Old 08-18-2014, 06:46 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Hey guys,
I got the block striped without any problem, but I have a few questions.
1. what's a good way to clean the stator? Super filthy.
2. The main bearings stayed in the bearing plate and block. Should I have the shop press them out or should I tap them out myself?
3. Should I leave all the old gaskets in place for the shop to soften them up for me?
Thanks,
Rick
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  #8  
Old 08-18-2014, 06:54 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Take the bearings out. Clean the gaskets off. The more you can do, the less they charge. Clean the stator like you would any other part. You won't hurt it. Finish by spraying it good with brake cleaner, and blowing it dry with compressed air.
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  #9  
Old 08-18-2014, 10:59 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Thanks Jonathan!
If I can reuse the old crank bearings, do they have to go back in exactly as they came out(position and direction)?
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  #10  
Old 08-21-2014, 07:48 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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I ordered a master rebuild kit because the exhaust valve is worn. Also ordered a main bearing set. I am concerned about how easy the PTO bearing slides on/off the crank shaft, also the "friction?" marks on the crank shaft.
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