1864 hydro slip?

sorner · #1 05-16-2017, 08:25 PM

I've looked through the board and it looks like slowing down going up hills (sundstrand hydro) is normal, fine. I can deal with that. (I did not have this at all with my 1641 by the way). But my question is, how big of a hill should this be noticeable? I really notice it going up and over my sand mound. But it also seems to slow/slip even on a slight grade. I didn't run it much before I tore it apart to replace the gaskets and seals so I can't be sure if it did it before I had it apart. It has new fluid and a new filter. Could it be the fluid? I used the Traveller hy-tran equivalent oil. Maybe I should go get hy-tran? I can feel the tractor trying to keep the speed up and as soon as the land levels out it takes off and I'm constantly messing with the level to keep a steady speed. The lever is not settling down slowly, it stays put (I have it adjusted just right). This seems a little beyond what is considered normal to me, but I don't know.

J-Mech · #2 05-16-2017, 08:42 PM

Relax, it's normal. The biggest culprit for the large difference in drive speed is worn linkage and trunion springs. Probably need to rebuild all that stuff. Or, just do what I do. Deal with it. Keep your hand on the lever and move it as necessary. Maybe I'll rebuild mine someday when it really bothers me.

The 1641 has a different hydro, with a different linkage set up.

sorner · #3 05-17-2017, 06:12 AM

I can deal with it but the wife complains, so I'll have to deal with fixing it. Happy wife happy life. There's no play in the linkage, so I'll look into the trunion springs.

Sam Mac · #4 05-17-2017, 07:08 AM

More noticeable in the Sundstrand's than the Hydrogear pumps. I also have a 1641 & an 1864. Up hill slow down hill fast

PaulS · #5 05-17-2017, 07:17 AM

As the owner of three supers I can attest to the slow down going uphill. The 2084 and 2086 slow the most but the 2072 seems not to slow down as much. One modification we did to our mowers (2084 and 2086) was to get a short length of threaded rod and a connecter to lengthen the speed control lever to a more handy height making them easier to reach.

sorner · #6 05-19-2017, 11:30 AM

Upon further investigation, and research, I think I have a weakened trunion/damper spring situation. I'm thinking about replacing the trunion/damper springs and caps to see if that makes a difference. A weak spring describes exactly what I'm experiencing. I've gone through the service manual, but due to how it was scanned into a PDF, at least the one I have, I cannot search for specific text in it, and I can't find anything about how it says to replace these springs. So I ask here prior to trying to do anything, can this spring be replaced with the transmission in the tractor? It looks like I just have to remove a couple snap rings and slide the plate off or at least out of the way enough to get to the springs. But I don't know if there's enough room to slide it off or out of the way while in the tractor. I really don't want to have to disconnect everything and pull the rear again if I don't have to. I wish I had dealt with that while I had the rear out for seal and gasket replacement.

It would have been much easier then.

J-Mech · #7 05-19-2017, 11:59 AM

You can't get the plate off, but you can slide it out enough to change the springs. It's easier removed, but not impossible installed.

Mike McKown · #8 05-19-2017, 12:10 PM

I cut two pieces of small rubber hose and stuck it in each end of the trunion on each end to take up the slop. They're held in place by a small zip tie. That took the slop out and did away with the changing speed problem. The rubber and hollow inside still leaves for a little cushion when changing trunion angle.

Not only were the springs worn but the steel cage that holds them as well was worn.

Been that way for three years now. If I ever pull the rear end, I'll fix it right.

sorner · #9 05-19-2017, 12:20 PM

Thanks guys, seems like a pretty easy fix then. j-mech says it can move enough to get the spring out which is what I was hoping. Obviously it would be easier with it out, but it can't be easier to pull the rear just to make it easy to replace. I'll take my chances on bruised and cut knuckles working in a tight spot to slide that plate enough to replace the spring. I just don't want to have to remove the rear again and risk anything with the frame mounting bolts by taking them out and putting them back in. The rear hasn't oozed a drop of fluid and I don't want to risk causing something there.

Terry C · #10 05-19-2017, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike McKown

I cut two pieces of small rubber hose and stuck it in each end of the trunion on each end to take up the slop. They're held in place by a small zip tie. That took the slop out and did away with the changing speed problem. The rubber and hollow inside still leaves for a little cushion when changing trunion angle.

Not only were the springs worn but the steel cage that holds them as well was worn.

Been that way for three years now. If I ever pull the rear end, I'll fix it right.

Somewhere on this site there was pics of this procedure. I can't find it now