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  #1  
Old 06-16-2017, 09:43 AM
familytime familytime is offline
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Default 2182 driveshaft

picked up a 2182 at my local cub dealer. It was brought into the shop for a leaking axle tube and some general maintenance. The bill was getting too high and I happened to stop in that day and was able to purchase the machine. I have gone through everything and the engine is running great, just one problem, the driveshaft wont turn. A few minutes later and I had it out. The splines on the engine side of the shaft are stripped. I suspect it had been getting towed around the lot. The CV splines are fine. It appears the shaft is no longer available. I'm stuck, what do I do now? I don't have time to run all over trying to get something custom made. I would like to just put a new shaft in.
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2017, 10:15 AM
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FrankF3 FrankF3 is offline
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familytime, WELCOME to the forum. I'm sure you will find some help here. The 2182 will serve you well once you get it running. Have you tried any of the sponsors at the top of the page for a good used driveshaft? Looking quickly it seems 759-3615 was replaced with part number 759-3615P. I don't know what the differences are or if there are any differences between the 2 part numbers.
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2017, 10:15 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Welcome to the forum.

First of all, towing the machine does not turn that shaft. Towing had nothing to do with it. If it was towed, the hydropump would grenade first. It would not ever spin the shaft. The 3 cyl motors are hard on driveline parts, but the most likely cause of the failure is just general use and lack of grease. The CV shaft is greasable.

You have a couple choices....
1.) Find a used driveline. I suggest ebay. You can also check with the sponsors at the top of the page.
2.) Build a new driveline. Contact a shop that specializes in drivelines and build a new shaft. Member JeffinPa will do anything he can to help you.
It's likely that if you do not want to go back with a used shaft, or can't find one, you will have to make a new shaft using the old style couplings instead of the CV style. Or, you will have to make one using a u-joint. I used to be opposed to a u-joint style shaft until I found out that Deere used the style on their machines using the same hydro pump. Just make for sure that the u-joint knuckle is designed for the RPM the engine turns. That is the most important part.
3.) Simply weld the collar that holds the balls to the shaft only on the engine end. The shaft does not need to telescope, so it won't cause any issues at all. This is what I would do if it was mine. Make sure that welding it still allows grease to go from the fitting to the CV joint, and make sure that it is in the same position as it would be if the snap ring was on.
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Old 06-16-2017, 10:18 AM
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DeltaCub DeltaCub is offline
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Contact a member here "Jeff In Pa" he is a machinist/fabricator and builds driveline components for members including me.
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Old 06-16-2017, 10:18 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankF3 View Post
Looking quickly it seems 759-3615 was replaced with part number 759-3615P. I don't know what the differences are or if there are any differences between the 2 part numbers.
Neither one of those numbers appear to be available anymore.
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  #6  
Old 06-16-2017, 12:04 PM
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I would seek out Jeff in PA, he made one for me from what I gave him.
I believe he still has the other end he cut off .
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2017, 02:54 PM
familytime familytime is offline
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As suggested earlier, welding seemed to be quick and easy. I went by my old job (welder) and welded it on. The hard part was putting it together while it was in the frame. It is running great. Took it for a spin, about 10 minutes to let it warm up nice. Everything seems to be in order. My son pointed out as soon as I was backing into the garage that we had a leak. On top of the hydro pump there are 2 large bolt like things with little holes in them. Fluid is coming out of the one on the left side of the tractor. Other than that we are super excited. This is really for my 10 year old to have a toy. (me too!) Time to put it away for the night and get ready for my night shift. Thanks all for the pointers so far. Have always wanted a garden tractor since my uncle got a simplicity back in 79, that was a beast.
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Old 06-16-2017, 03:09 PM
V30crewcab V30crewcab is offline
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theres a guy that rebuilds those relief valves. he can fix you up. heres the thread with info.
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=34139
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  #9  
Old 06-16-2017, 03:18 PM
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CubDieselFan CubDieselFan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by familytime View Post
As suggested earlier, welding seemed to be quick and easy. I went by my old job (welder) and welded it on.
What did you weld?
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Old 06-16-2017, 03:20 PM
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Familytime, welcome to OCC. Where are you at in Georgia?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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