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#1
07-21-2017, 10:20 AM
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1650
Brought home my first running Quietline today. The PO said he replaced the engine seals about a year ago and hasn't used it much. It's in decent shape, runs good, and was priced very good. It seems to have an a lot more vibration than the WF Hydros (109,129,149) I have used in the past. Is there any way to check the motor mounts without removing the engine? I'm going to take of the fenders and tunnel cover to clean the hydro unit. I'll check the drive shaft while I have it apart. Thanks.
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#2
07-21-2017, 07:56 PM
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Visually look at them. Usually the upper mounts are ok. The bottom ones take all the abuse. If they are deformed, they are junk.
From what I've heard, the 16 horse K is a shaker. Don't know from experience as the 1650 & 800 are the only QL series tractors that I don't have.
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1975 1000 | 2 snow blades (1 power angle) 1979 1100 | 6 44a decks, 1 38" deck 1977 1200 | Brinly cultivater & moldboard plow 1978 1250 | qa42 snow thrower, IH landscape rake 1975 1250 (parts tractor) 1977 1450 1976 1650 with dual remotes 2007 Husqvarna 2348
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#3
07-21-2017, 08:42 PM
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Most times I literally try to pick up the motor on one side to check the mounts, if you can lift it 2", the mounts are bad.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#5
07-21-2017, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
 To the OP, also look from under the tractor, "sometimes" you can see the rubbers are mashed, or torn.
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Make the best of each day , Todd  Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! 
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#6
07-22-2017, 12:16 AM
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With the mule drive removed, you can often peer up inside the frame from the front of the 1650, to inspect the engine snubber mounts, and the lower iso engine mounts.
Remove the frame tunnel cover, and you will see the rear two lower iso mounts, and maybe see if the mount bolts are through the engine flywheel cover by now. Nice pick up on the 1650, by the way! I'm pretty sure the Quiet line was the most produced model IH offered, so a lot of help on these are found here at OCC! Good luck!
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES
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#7
07-22-2017, 08:37 AM
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My 1650 is one of my smoothest running tractors....
 Look underneath to see if the oil pan is contacting the ISO engine rails and or the front axle cross member. Also look on the left side of the tractor to see if the timing mark site hole is above the frame rail. If the mounts have collapsed the site hole may be to low to see.
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#8
07-22-2017, 04:12 PM
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After removing the 1" layer of dirt and grease from the Hydro unit I found some nice repairs/modifications had been done. The engine cradle has the brace welded to it. The rubber mounts seem to be in good shape and the hydro Trunion bracket has been repaired. Also came with a very good condition 42" blade. Not bad for $200
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#9
07-22-2017, 04:21 PM
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You did good for 200.00.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo.
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#10
07-22-2017, 06:47 PM
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Yes great deal and good info on identifying bad mounts. That deck is money btw wow looks great
I just rebuilt my M12 in the 1204 and replaced its mounts. They were so bad that when it ran, the cradle was pounding the frame and it sounded like it had a really bad engine knock. Also in that series, I found out that the side of the exhaust pipe out the front had a groove worn into the side of it by the grill slats because of the bad mounts. Replaced them with some like new rubber ones from a quiet line as they apparently were the same still years later and it also has the "cradle mod" from the factory.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub
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