Switching from Flex Disc to CV joint driveshaft on a 1572

[drcjv]

Anybody have experiance switching to newer cv joint driveshaft on a1572. How hard is it. And does it fit right in or are there modifications that need to be done.

[Sam Mac]

You could do it but it’s not a bolt in job. You will need the adapters for the pump and the crank shaft that the CV joints bolt to. The hydro pump shaft will need to be drilled and tapped for the bolt that holds the pump adapter on to it. Then you would need the complete drive shaft for a 1782 or a 2182 and at that I’m not 100 percent that the length is correct and the ends of the shafts are splined to fit into the ball inside the CV joints. Another option is to use a 2000 series drive shaft. You can cut them into 2 pieces and then insert a piece of 5/8” shaft inside then drill a ¼” hole through it and put a spirol pin in it. But you will still need the adapters and still have to drill and tap the pump shaft. Pics are of a 2000 series shaft that I used for a re-power, a pump shaft that I drilled and tapped for the adapter flange and the pump with the flange installed.

[FrankF3]

I've been contemplating to do the same to my 1572. Years ago, the bronze bushing at the pump end of the shaft wore out and allowed the disconnect clutch to spin in an unbalanced/off-center position. I had my wife and son doing the mowing and they never told me about the vibration until I started loosing oil at the pump seal. I replaced the pump seal but it did not help. The pump shaft had worn to a egg-shape against the bearing on the same side the disconnect clutch was being slung about. I had to replace the pump shaft too at the time. I had to move the 1572 the other day and felt the added vibration, so it's time to either rebuild it, or get rid of all that mass from the disconnect clutch or switch to a CV Joint driveshaft on it. Which of the 2 options not including keeping the disconnect clutch would be the longest lived and most maintenance free?

[Sam Mac]

I would dump the clutch, from what I understand they are nothing but a problem but I have never even seen one so I'd ask someone that has one first. I like the 2000 series shafts and they are 0 maintenance. I put one in my JD 317 dump truck that I repowered with a CH22. So far no problems. Now can I say for sure it will work behind a Bota diesel, no but I see no reason why it wouldn’t. I like to do the test stuff on my own tractors before recommending it to others.

[FrankF3]

Sam Mac, when you used the 2000 series drive shaft, what do you use for a fan to keep air blowing over the hydro, or didn't you use one? Also what is the length end-to-end of a 2000 series drive shaft you used ?

[CADplans]

About 5 years back, the 1872 got to vibrating, the splines of the flex disk coupling were worn.

I figured the original stuff lasted 20 years, so I just replaced it.



It is perfect now.

Maybe I will consider something different in another 20 years, when the parts are NLA..!!

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

Sam Mac, when you used the 2000 series drive shaft, what do you use for a fan to keep air blowing over the hydro, or didn't you use one?

You can use the 2000 fan

[jpswift1]

Originally Posted by CADplans

About 5 years back, the 1872 got to vibrating, the splines of the flex disk coupling were worn.

I figured the original stuff lasted 20 years, so I just replaced it.



It is perfect now.

Maybe I will consider something different in another 20 years, when the parts are NLA..!!

When I bought my Super Cub in September I noticed that it had the same issue that you're having. My other Super Cubs in the fleet are all Cyclops so I just assumed that since they were newer, they were just smoother operating tractors. I took the tunnel cover of my 1872 after a couple weeks of mowing and noticed the driveshaft wobbling as the tractor was running. Luckily there are no leaks coming from the crank seal of the engine or the hydro pump seal, caused by the wobbly drive shaft. I think the ball bushings are worn and I know the splined coupler is worn because I can see it move when I lift up and down on the drive shaft. I was going to convert the drive shaft over to a CV style or a newer 2000 Series Cub one, but I just got new rag joints, new ball bushings and I'll contact Jeff in PA and get a new splined hydro coupler. I'm so thankful for this great site with so much useful information and great members that I've met on here.

[CubDieselFan]

Stan is making the upgrade to the CV shaft on my 1572. We are ditching the clutch as well.

[FrankF3]

Going to CV joint style driveshaft is the best thing i did for the 1572. I've had zero problems once I had the install completed. Since then I've also acquired a 1772 that i put the same style driveshaft in, with zero problems as well.