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#1
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Has anyone had any luck fixing a cracked oil pan on a 10 horse Kohler by grinding a groove in the crack and loading it up with JB Weld? Also, the one I'm replacing has a sump on it and the replacement is flat. Anyone see a problem there?? Thanks, Carpetbagger
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#2
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Never fixed an oil pan with jb weld before. But I guess it doesn’t hurt to try. As far as the replacement flat oil pan goes, you can’t use it as the dipper on the connecting rod will hit it coming around. You need that extra depth. Also, it depends on the type of flat pan as some won’t even bolt up properly and are designed for other applications.
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Cub Cadet 147 (first tractor), 108, Original Others: Allis Chalmers 710, Massey Ferguson 10, John Deere 110 |
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#3
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Thanks for the reply. I appreciate your idea, and that's exactly why I posed the question and was afraid of what the answer might be. I think I'm going to rattle the flat pan (off old motor) on the new motor and turn it over by hand, just to confirm that it will, indeed hit the flat pan. My other trouble is that this pan difference is the only visible difference in the two motors, and the new motor has absolutely no tags, stickers or identifying marks. This is yet another reason why I truly appreciate this forum. Carpetbagger
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#4
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10 hp usually take the short dipper , 12hp-16hp use the longer.. look at the lengths of your 2 dippers and see if they are different. I assume the pan your needing fixed is aluminum I recommend getting it welded.
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#5
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Quote:
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Cub Cadet 147 (first tractor), 108, Original Others: Allis Chalmers 710, Massey Ferguson 10, John Deere 110 |
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#6
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True. I am used to the larger 12s and 14s so I could be mistaken. I agree about the getting it welded or find another used one second hand as a more permanent fix. But, if he wants to give jb weld a shot it’s just his labor.
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Cub Cadet 147 (first tractor), 108, Original Others: Allis Chalmers 710, Massey Ferguson 10, John Deere 110 |
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#7
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This seems like the perfect opportunity try aluminum brazing rod. I've seen a few youtube vids and it seems legit.
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Rusty 149 project with: QA42 snow thrower 38" deck Barn fresh 1811 with: 44c mowing deck QA42A snow thrower 42" snow blade |
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#8
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Hmm, never heard of that before, but sounds like a decent shot at fixing it.
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Cub Cadet 147 (first tractor), 108, Original Others: Allis Chalmers 710, Massey Ferguson 10, John Deere 110 |
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#9
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I've used alluminum torch rod for thin stuff like radiator tanks and had success but it would be much harder to use on something as thick as an oil pan. I have an alluminum spool gun for my mig or tig torch to use but if your not familiar with these processes none are very easy to do. Best bet. Find a local welder to do it if you dont want ot to leak.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
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#10
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I am a big fan of JB Weld and have no doubt that it would do the trick as far as sealing your leak. However my fear would be that it would have no affect on stopping the crack from extending. If you try JB Weld, it would be a good idea to drill a 1/8" hole through the pan at the very end of the crack to prevent extension.
I have also done some of the aluminum brazing with good success. I believe it would also work well, but because of the thickness of the pan and because aluminum dissipates heat rapidly, I think you would need to use an acetylene torch to get enough heat, rather than a plumbers Bernz-o-matic. Again, you would want to drill the crack at the end. |
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