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#1
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Hello Gang! Yes, I am brand new to the Cub Cadet world. I have been working on old cars for many years, so its gonna be okay. I am grateful for the knowledge of this forum.
I just purchased a 129 in fairly good shape. I plan to work it and treat it with kindness. It doesn't need much- I think. I have a lot to say and ask about it, but I'm gonna start with this: After driving it around a bit on day 1, I then washed it- probably too aggressively. After that, it would neither spin its starter nor spark its plug. I kicked myself for my actions, and compressed air would not fix the problem. Then I had to push it 20 feet to the garage. Well... How the heck do you roll these? I am amazed and baffled by the hydro static concept, and I have a lot to learn. I tried a variety of combinations with the shifter and that small release lever (see pic). But I dont really think my release lever is doing ANYTHING. It just kinda clinks up and down. Do I pull it away from the frame? Maybe something is stuck under there. If anyone knows the text shown on this label, that would be great too. I cannot read it. Yes, I should read the users manual... I have not found those yet. I had to leave town for a few days, and plan to begin the tune up again on Sunday. |
#2
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If the lever just flops around likely the dump valve lever is broken and not engaging the trans relief valves,when towing or pushing the valves need to be depressed to avoid damage to the hydro trans. when all is in working order holding the lever in the release position will depress the 2 valves at the top of the hydro, you can access this by removing the tunnel cover. Some models may have the auto relief valves and then a functioning dump valve lever is not needed !
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#3
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athomas, thank you! It's so great that that tunnel cover looks so easily removable. I will get it off soon and have a good look. Perhaps the trans relief valves are simply stuck. Does this sometimes happen, even though the trans seems to be operating fine in forward and reverse? I think I have seen a YouTube video where a fellow pulled one of his valves and sent it in for a rebuild. But his valve was leaking fluid. Thanks for the feedback!
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#4
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On the older machines when the valves have not been operated they could get stuck down in the released position, sometimes they will pop back up when tractor is started, they only move about 1/4 inch if your tractor moves forward and rev the valves are in the up/drive position they're spring loaded and should move up/down freely, if they stick down the tractor will not move . One would normally only push them down for pushing or towing purposes which doesn't occur very often on a cub ! on a 45 year old machine the valves may only have been used a couple times and that's why they stick ,lack of use !
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#5
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Thanks again! Soon I will carefully inspect them, possible remove them, to see if they still move. I have heard that valve removal and inspection is pretty easy. I like your comment about rarely needing to push or tow them! I am hoping I will achieve this reliability soon. I will soon be inspecting and tracing the entire electrical harness to find out what I did to "kill" it. It may have been moisture, or an old wire came loose, or maybe I blew some mouse material down into the flywheel-stator area.
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#6
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This is here in the Technical Library,
it may help you understand. https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3 If you have the manual type and the buttons are sticking down, you can remove the valves to try and loosen them up with no surprises popping out, just be sure to clean the area real good. You don't want any dirt going down the holes. |
#7
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Chris,
Start by checking for juice to the coil from the harness. Then from the coil to the points. You may have just got the points soaked in the process. Or possibly broken one of the wires on the coil terminals. I have seen many of these just barely hanging on by a strand or two just waiting to pull loose. Carefully inspect all the crimped connectors for this if it is an original harness. Also, there may be issues at the ignition switch as well with corrosion and/or melted terminal insulators. |
#8
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Ironman and Fin- I thank you! I will let you know what the valves look like after I begin the tune up again. And if they won't respond to "therapy", the I will look into replacing them or rebuilding them professionally. I have heard that one should not simply try to replace the O rings with general purpose stuff.
As to the electricals- I appreciate the "order of operations" here. I have a digital MM, and I might have an analog one too. And I will clean and gap the points while I'm in there. I am annoyed with myself for causing a problem. But sometimes a little "tough love" when you first test a machine is a good thing- it reveals its weak spots, and lets you know what might fail in the near future. Thanks. |
#9
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If it turns out your wiring harness is in need of replacement, I HIGHLY recommend forum member Mlamar wiring harnesses.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=34457 Very well made, affordable and labelled very clearly for easy installation. Jeff |
#10
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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