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#3
07-27-2020, 03:25 PM
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Thats not funny, all the important stuff is under there (Hydro valves, drive shaft, etc.)
Thinking I may hsve to kock it loose and reinstall it with bolts. Its on jack stands now and mostly stripped down for a repaint/refresh. replacing anything I find thats worn out or broken. Having that tunnel out of the way would make the process so much easier. Any thoughts? 
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#4
07-27-2020, 04:35 PM
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Part of the joy of narrow frame ownership.
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade
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#5
07-27-2020, 04:42 PM
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#6
07-27-2020, 07:34 PM
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Honestly, pulling the rear is not that big a deal. Once you know what to do, you can have the tractor split in less than 1/2 hour.....like I can!
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower
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#7
07-27-2020, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
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Daniel G.  . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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#8
07-27-2020, 09:42 PM
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Pull the rear, fix what needs to be fixed, and you shouldn’t have to worry about it for a few decades. Not a bad job.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart     
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#9
07-27-2020, 11:17 PM
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How would you "knock loose" the tunnel, which is essentially a huge part of the frame. It basically falls apart with that removed.
I can see how you could cut a notch towards the trailing edge to gain better access to the plates and hydro valves. I briefly considered doing that and putting the piece back in with a hinge, but ultimately didn't want to hack up an old classic.
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#10
07-28-2020, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
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With a SERIOUSLY used 149,, (not a garage queen, a weekly mowing machine,, etc,,) unless EVERY component is replaced,, and I mean EVERY component,, That tunnel cover has to come off at LEAST annually. There is gonna be some issue with a machine of this age,, Heck, I even tossed the four screws that held the cover on,, and switched to "sprung" cotter pins to hold the cover in place. The cotter pins had the legs spread slightly, you would squeeze the legs, and insert the cotter pin, the head was big enough to not fall through. Forward / reverse friction, the fan, relief valves, drive shaft components,, THEN there was the accumulated dirt on the transmission that needs washed,, pull the cover, PULL THE COVER,,, PULL THE COVER!!  - .  Pulling the cover off the 149, then pulling the cover off the 1872,, THAT was the reason I switched to a gear drive machine,,,
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