IH CC 782 lost all electric power

[IHCC1250]

I screwed up! I lost all power to my cub cadet 782. I installed a new volt meter and the + and - terminals were too close together and shorted out. I now have no power on the key switch. No headlights, no starter, nothing. I tried another fully charged battery and still nothing. I had a bit of hope it was just a fuse, but my model is less than 719,999. So there’s no fuse there. What shorted out, and what is causing the problem? I have a couple things here. I have an edited version of the 782 wiring diagram that shows my wiring mess/ setup. I also have the original serial number and wiring diagram. My 782 is made of June of 1980. And has an engine swap. A 16hp Briggs and Stratton opposed twin engine. With magneto ignition instead of points. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Billy-O]

I had a commented before this but I removed it after looking more at your edited wiring diagram. I now wan to know....... did this tractor run with this new engine and wiring setup before you installed the volt meter that shorted out? Where did you install this volt meter? In the same place as the original meter? Somewhere else?

And, finally..... are you using a testing meter, such as an DVM, to track your problem?

[IHCC1250]

Originally Posted by Billy-O

I had a commented before this but I removed it after looking more at your edited wiring diagram. I now wan to know....... did this tractor run with this new engine and wiring setup before you installed the volt meter that shorted out? Where did you install this volt meter? In the same place as the original meter? Somewhere else?

And, finally..... are you using a testing meter, such as an DVM, to track your problem?

This tractor ran great with the wiring set up. The only thing I couldn’t do was turn off with the Killswitch. I would have to choke it out to kill it. The starter started just fine, in the headlights functioned great

I need a new multimeter, because my multimeter doesn’t really work very well. So yes and no.

[ol'George]

Ok,it ran when parked with the "modified" wiring system.
Then you added a volt meter? did you add it in place of the amp meter?
and did you wire it using the amp meter wires, or run separate wires as you should?
We need those answers to further help.

[IHCC1250]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Ok,it ran when parked with the "modified" wiring system.
Then you added a volt meter? did you add it in place of the amp meter?
and did you wire it using the amp meter wires, or run separate wires as you should?
We need those answers to further help.

Yeah..... I just found out you can’t use a volt meter in place of an amp meter. However I did put the old amp meter that worked back in and it still didn’t work. Yup. I used the original wires for the amp meter. What exactly does this do to the wiring?

[IHCC1250]

Here it is working before https://youtu.be/juEeVIq1CaI[LIST=1]http://https://youtu.be/juEeVIq1CaI

[ol'George]

As you have learned, a volt meter measures pressure like in a garden hose with the nozzle shut off (or open).
An amp meter measures flow like a garden hose also, but how much is flowing like a small trickle or a large volume.
When checking voltage with a test meter, one uses a + probe on a lead from the + battery side and a negative probe to ground or - on the battery -post.
When checking amp flow, the current usually has to pass through the meter as water flowing in a hose.
Now I say usually because there are inductive amp meters that just go around the wire,it physically does not need to be attached to the wire one is measuring.

So with things hooked back up normally, with your cub amp meter inline as it was before you smoked your new voltmeter, you should have 12 volts (or an illuminated test light if you do not trust your test meter) at the battery lead on the solenoid and at both terminals of the amp meter, if yes move on to "B" terminal at the ign switch (you are following the schematic) it should be show power there also (if not fix it as it is your problem) then turn the switch "on" you should have power on the "I" terminal ( that you are no longer using as you have a magneto)
and when you turn the switch to "start" you also should have power to the "S" terminal on the switch as that powers the solenoid allowing the starter to spin.
Do you see how you are trouble shooting the no power problem by following the schematic?
I think you are going to find the problem at or leading to the ignition switch.
If you actually did as you said, and just invariantly connected both voltmeter terminals together with something metal, you should not have done any damage to anything, but if you touched the terminals to the ground that is a different ball game, as you could have burned a wire. from the battery to the ign switch,
or anywhere in that circuit.
hope all this makes sence.
Edit:
When you get things back normal/running we can show you a simple circuit to kill the magneto using either a different ign switch from a cub with a Magnum engine or a simple relay to kill the engine magneto, without having to choke it to death.
Also I strongly suggest at least the brake safety switch.
it is too easy to start a tractor and have it get away from an operator or someone that is not familar with it!

[DeltaCub]

ol' George knows his stuff! I checked out the YouTube video and the engine sounds like an old B&S opposed twin. If, and I say IF that is the engine you have, check out the wiring schematic for a 582. Also check out the proper ignition switch and other "lectrical" stuff from the 582 parts catalogue.

[IHCC1250]

Originally Posted by ol'George

As you have learned, a volt meter measures pressure like in a garden hose with the nozzle shut off (or open).
An amp meter measures flow like a garden hose also, but how much is flowing like a small trickle or a large volume.
When checking voltage with a test meter, one uses a + probe on a lead from the + battery side and a negative probe to ground or - on the battery -post.
When checking amp flow, the current usually has to pass through the meter as water flowing in a hose.
Now I say usually because there are inductive amp meters that just go around the wire,it physically does not need to be attached to the wire one is measuring.

So with things hooked back up normally, with your cub amp meter inline as it was before you smoked your new voltmeter, you should have 12 volts (or an illuminated test light if you do not trust your test meter) at the battery lead on the solenoid and at both terminals of the amp meter, if yes move on to "B" terminal at the ign switch (you are following the schematic) it should be show power there also (if not fix it as it is your problem) then turn the switch "on" you should have power on the "I" terminal ( that you are no longer using as you have a magneto)
and when you turn the switch to "start" you also should have power to the "S" terminal on the switch as that powers the solenoid allowing the starter to spin.
Do you see how you are trouble shooting the no power problem by following the schematic?
I think you are going to find the problem at or leading to the ignition switch.
If you actually did as you said, and just invariantly connected both voltmeter terminals together with something metal, you should not have done any damage to anything, but if you touched the terminals to the ground that is a different ball game, as you could have burned a wire. from the battery to the ign switch,
or anywhere in that circuit.
hope all this makes sence.
Edit:
When you get things back normal/running we can show you a simple circuit to kill the magneto using either a different ign switch from a cub with a Magnum engine or a simple relay to kill the engine magneto, without having to choke it to death.
Also I strongly suggest at least the brake safety switch.
it is too easy to start a tractor and have it get away from an operator or someone that is not familar with it!

That was amazing.. great GREAT information posted. Thank you very much for that. I will keep you all posted on the status. Should get some time to inspect wiring this weekend. I also popped a fuse out and it’s bad. So I’ll be getting a bunch of stuff ready. Thanks very much George.

[IHCC1250]

Originally Posted by DeltaCub

ol' George knows his stuff! I checked out the YouTube video and the engine sounds like an old B&S opposed twin. If, and I say IF that is the engine you have, check out the wiring schematic for a 582. Also check out the proper ignition switch and other "lectrical" stuff from the 582 parts catalogue.

Will do. The engine very well may have been taken out of a 582. It’s the same Briggs engine.

Briggs and Stratton 16hp opposed twin. Model: https://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocu..._ny7tH217FzoPu