882D fuel tank removal

[ChrisA]

The PO let crud get into the fuel tank and 3 or 4 times a season the engine will just starve and die. My remedy is to disconnect the fuel line from the in-line fuel filter and blow the line back to the tank with an air hose. After a brief pause I get a column of mist coming out of the fill hole and then she is good for another couple of months. I dont think I am damaging any internal filters in the tank as my manual doesn't show any ( and if there were they are long since blown out).
I would like to take the tank out and clean it, but the job looks like a PITA. I think the whole seat- mudguard-footrest assembly has to come off. Is there some cunning easy way to get that tank out? If not I guess I just keep my air hose handy.

[Matt G.]

You need to remove the fenders, which is a 5-minute job.

Keep up the 'run 'til it dies and blow out the line' and you'll probably wreck the injector pump eventually. Just take the time to clean the tank and do it right...

[MBounds]

Chris A, Matt G: If the fuel line is disconnected behind the fuel pump, there are no injectors or pump involved when reverse blowing out the tank, just the tank and fuel line....BTDT!!...

Chris: The next time, go to your nearest Tractor Supply and get yourself some Diesel 911. It comes in the red container....it will absoulotely dissolve all that "gelled crud" in your tank. If there's actual trash, then a tank removal and flush out is necessary, but unless the PO left the fuel tank cap off and leaves/pinestraw, etc., got in there, that is unlikely the problem. Diesel will gel caused by a bacterium... Diesel 911 solves all that... I've got a 782D and the 911 solved my engine dying problem... Try it, you will like it.. just follow the instructions on the container after you blow it out again...

[Matt G.]

Myron-

Yes, I know. I was referring to starving the the injector pump (and fuel pump) for fuel every time the clog in the tank cuts off the fuel supply.

[ChrisA]

Thanks,guys. I shall certainly try the Diesel 911 and hope it works. If not I guess I need to take a good look at removing the fenders, which doesn't look like a 5 minute job, but maybe it is. Thanks again.

[PeterJ]

ChrisA,
Bust out your impact. Then, removing the seat takes less than 5 minutes. I've had my deisel for 15 years and am by most people's standards really anal about fuel and oil cleanliness.

During the last few years, I would only have the fuel starvation problem in the winter and most likely when the tank had less than 1/2 tank of fuel (but I don't remember that for sure). I put in all kinds of additives and was at the end of the rope when a good friend I had inquired, told me to clean the tank. I thought, "No way, I don't let crap get in my tank!" When I cleaned it out I was SHOCKED at how much crap was in there! There was alot of fuel tank cap gasket that had hardened, cracked, and fell in while the cap was being removed. The stuff that was in the tank had been floating and as time went on, lost some of it's bouency and with the fuel circulating, as injector systems do, the crap eventually would end up in the fuel outlet and plug it.

Pick up ten feet of fuel line before you start so you can replace it too. It has probably hardened over the years.

BTW: Isn't this computer forum stuff great? Now everyone in the country, scratch that, WORLD, has good friends, like MattG, to help solve their problems!

[TheSaturnV]

First-hand knowledge of what Matt and Peter are talking about.

The first time you pull the seat and fenders it make take a little longer, but as Matt says you can have it all off in 5 minutes after you've done it once or twice. Peter is right on, get some fuel line and replace that as well. If/when you run the new fuel line, be sure to cover the ends up with some tape, because when you snake it up through the chassis, some of that oily dirt will find its way in. On mine, the fuel tank is simply wedged into the chassis, with no bolts or other attachments. You have to lift up (on the back I think) to get it to pop out.

[PeterJ]

While were sharing tricks , try cleaning the end of the old fuel line and then tape the new fuel line to it. That way you can use the old fuel line to "lead" the new through the frame rail. The tape won't be strong enough to pull it through but will be strong enough to guide it through while you push the new line through. Use electrical tape and stretch it while you are wrapping it around the fuel line. Fold the last 1/8" over on itself so you have a little tab to pull on to take the tape off. Or, you can just recut the new fuel line behind the tape.

[PeterJ]

BTW, the hose on the top of the tank is for the return and the one on the bottom of the tank is the feed to the pump.

[j knight]

Just insert an old golf tee in the end of the line. That will keep out dirt and whatever. Joe