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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #1  
Old 12-01-2015, 05:54 PM
rdehli rdehli is offline
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Default 1812 driveshaft questions

my 1812 has been shearing coiled spring pins , I dug into it today. was going to replace the front flange and bearing and also the rear centering bearing. took it apart and found the the input shaft on the hydro is egg shaped causing my issues. can you repair the input shaft or what can I do to fix the spring pin issues?

thanks in advance

Rob
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:01 PM
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I had my 1572 have the same condition with the hydro shaft becoming egg-shaped. It really did not really show up until I was randomly loosing sealing ability of the front seal and loosing hytran. As I was digging into it, I found the bronze self centering bearing at the pump end of the driveshaft was worn out and was allowing the disconnect clutch to rotate in an off-center out of balance condition. I believe this is what led to the problem with the hydro pump shaft becoming egg-shaped.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:03 PM
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Rob

If the input shaft is worn the best thing to do is to replace the shaft. BIG $$$$$. I had one years ago that was worn, what I did was drilled the coupler or arm as they call it 90 degrees from the pin hole and tapped it for set screws to hold it from moving. I also used some Devcon plastic metal. I was working a couple years later when I sold the tractor. Never did like that design with only a pin. Good luck.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:06 PM
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Frank, I think Rob is talking about the shaft being egg shaped where the coupler fits over it. The 1811 only has a round shaft with a 1/4" pin through it unlike the splines on the Supers and Cyclops series.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:08 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Rob

If the input shaft is worn the best thing to do is to replace the shaft. BIG $$$$$. I had one years ago that was worn, what I did was drilled the coupler or arm as they call it 90 degrees from the pin hole and tapped it for set screws to hold it from moving. I also used some Devcon plastic metal. I was working a couple years later when I sold the tractor. Never did like that design with only a pin. Good luck.
I took it to mean that the shaft was egg shaped at the front pump bearing.....not just the hole for the pin.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:13 PM
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Jon we are on the same page. Egg shaped shaft. What I suggested is a stop gap fix. As you mentioned the proper thing to do is replace the pump or the shaft. The used pump is less expensive.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:34 PM
rdehli rdehli is offline
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could I drill out the cast piece to equal the input shaft? or less trouble swaping hydro"s. I have an extra one on the shelf.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:44 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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could I drill out the cast piece to equal the input shaft? or less trouble swaping hydro"s. I have an extra one on the shelf.
Less metal for the pin to turn the shaft with a larger hole. I wouldn't.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:03 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You cannot repair it. Not cost-effectively anyway. Your best most economical route is to replace the hydro with a good used unit. They usually sell for around $125.

It is caused by driveshaft misalignment either because it is bent, or because the centering bearing went out. The off-center load causes the shaft to wear a flat spot on it because that is where the most pressure is on the shaft. I'm not sure if that makes any sense.... but it's the best description I can do at the moment.
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