Clutch Rebuild-Manual Transmission

[Merk]

I purchase a 100 with a 42 inch mower deck and front blade at an auction in the fall of 2012.








This 100 is one of the quickest starting garden tractors I've own. When you tried to engage the mower it acted like something was in a bind and not letting the mower blades spin. The problem ended up being the pulley was against the mule drive. The welded nut inside the frame was missing and the mule drive was bent. Only way to fix it was to remove the engine. The clutch between the engine and trans was acting up too (someone installed a wide frame clutch). While I need to remove the engine to weld the nut back on I will fix the clutch too. Removing the clutch is easy to do if you follow your repair instructions in your Cub Cadet manual.

I had an extra narrow frame clutch to use.
Narrow Frame Clutch Assembly:


I wanted to take clutch assembly apart to make sure everything was ok.
Here are the special tools I use to disassemble/assemble a clutch assembly:

First thing I notice the throw out bearing was froze up.

One of the first things I do is to remove coupler joint between the trans and driveshaft. I use my V-block to hold the clutch and hang the clutch disk over the edge:


I use a spiroid pin punch to drive the pin out.

Notice the pin is over the edge so it has a place for the pin to go.

[Merk]

Notice the location of the pin in relation to the V-block:


Next to removed is the pin holding the spring in place:


The bolt in the picture is an important safety feature that is a must if you use a jig like this one:


Pin out:


Here are some of the tools I use and the spring:


The next I like to do is remove the pin(s) that hold the pressure plates on the driveshaft. I will turn the clutch assembly end for end to use my jig to remove the pins.


Closer view:


Front pin being removed:

[Merk]

Clutch assembly is apart. Here is what the clutch disc looks like:

The pile to the right of the clutch disc is part of the clutch disc.

Pressure plates:


Release arm:

You need to look for excessive wear where my finger is pointing to:

This release arm is in good shape.

The area where my finger is pointing to is where the throw out bearing goes.


The driveshaft needs replace. Tomorrow we will make a list of parts that need replace.

[Merk]

by rwairforce

Excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing. Pictures are a powerful teaching aid. Those jigs certainly look helpful.

How did you identify it as a wide frame clutch?

The wide frame-quiet line clutch assembly had a spacer in it. Narrow frame clutch assemblies do not have the spacer. The spacer moves the throw out bearing back some making harder if not possible to adjust correctly.

Picture of area in question:

[Merk]

Originally Posted by rwairforce

Cool, thanks again.
I see that you're in Ohio as well. It would probably be easier for me just to let you do my clutch for me when/if I need it. LOL!

My plans are to rebuild engines and clutches for the earlier IH Cub Cadets sometime in the future. Right now I'm having problems finding free time to work on my on Cub Cadets.

One of the main reasons for this thread is to show how easy it can be to rebuild a clutch.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

nicely done MERK , I've seen a few guys make up a tool sort of like you have. not everyone has a press at home and even if you do setup time can take a while. that's what a forum is for.

Thanks DVOGTVPE

I'm not a big fan of using a press. The tool I use can go to an event and is much easier to use than a press.

[Merk]

The last item I check out is the 3 pin driver.


The picture shows the wear on the pins. Worn pin(s) will make the holes in the clutch disc go oversize and the pins could shear off. It will make the clutch go out of balance and the tractor will have the shakes.

I will replace the bushing in the 3 pin driver too.

[Merk]

Here some great drawings to identify the different parts of a narrow frame clutch assembly:



Thanks Craig Cambell for the drawings!!!

[Merk]

Materials used to build my clutch fixture:

The material used is 1/2 X 2 inch.
The angle iron is 1 1/4 inch.
The threaded rod is 1/2 thread.
The length of the threaded rod is 18 inches.
Overall length of the frame is 22 inches.
Height is 8 inches.

The bushing that goes between the threaded rod is 4 1/2 inches long and 1 inch outside diameter. The end towards the threaded rod is 1/2 inch diameter. The ends towards the clutch assembly/driveshaft is 5/8 inch diameter. Part was made on a lathe.

Threaded rod end:
There was a 1/2 nut welded to a flat piece of steel. This nut/plate was welded to the uprights. Centerline height is 7 inches.

End that holds driveshaft in place:
Shim stock was used to get the 5/8 spacing for the drive shaft. Support piece is 6 3/4 inches.

Clutch holding fixture was built by my Son in his high school ag shop.