3000 series axle leak

[Oak]

I spoke too soon on none of my tractors leaking at the rear axle. I finished putting the new head on the 3165, took it for a spin and it runs great. Parked it in the garage and found a small amount of oil on the floor this morning. It's nothing major, I just don't like stuff that leaks oil. Here you can see how the oil worked past the first seal and leaked out the axle cover. The tubes are dry on the the 3k tractors, all oil is kept in the differential.
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After work today I started pulling it apart. I looked in the manual and they show it on a work bench, I'm not gonna pull the whole thing off the tractor, that doesn't sound like fun.
You have to pull the fender pan, tank and rear frame plate, no big deal. I took compressed air and the shop vac and tried my best to get all the dirt and grime off the tractor because I want to reuse the oil..I'm cheap and it only has about 5 hours on it.
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Next thing is to remove the axle nuts. I don't have a socket big enough but I will next time.
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Then break out the pullers and pull the hub off. I put the lug nuts back on the studs and pulled on the black spacer plate. They are on there tight but mine both came off fine.
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Here is what the splined axle looks like that goes into the hub.

[Oak]

Here is what the inside of the differential looks like in a tractor without the locking differential. Looks pretty clean too.
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I took the U bolts off that hold the rear to the frame, 2 of the 4 bolts on the front support and loosened the other 2 on the front support. I then put a strap across the top to support some of the weight and it gave me enough clearence to remove the axle cover plate.
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Here is side that the seal failed on. I'm not sure if water got in it and caused it to fail but the other side that is not leaking is clean.

[Oak]

I pulled the complete axle out and need to clean the rust off of the axle so I can remove the bearings.
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I used a 3M Scotch Pad on it and cleaned it up and the bearings slide off. It looks like the seal came loose in the bearing block. I need to see if I can find new seals and reuse the bearings. Cub wants around $50 for each one and there are 4 total. The arrows point toward the differential. The left bearing is what I call a babbitt bearing and the right one is a roller bearing....that is not in any oil and doesn't have a grease fitting. What were they thinking!

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Here is the "babbitt bearing", it is the one near the differential. It has a seal around the axle on the outer side and a seal around the block on the side towards the differential(side shown). The two make a complete seal to the axle tube.
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And here is the roller bearing, it is near the hub and has seals on both sides.
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Okay guys. I need to find seals for this thing. Can anybody tell me what seal this is? It looks like it was made by KTP and the number is 4885.
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Thats all for tonight. Stay tuned for tomorrow knights episode.

[Sam Mac]

Todd

Thank you so much for doing this killer write up on how to repair one of these. This one may end up being a sticky.

[Oak]

Thanks Sam. I think I found the seals needed. They are 30mm x 40mm x 4mm. There is a toatal of 6 used. I found a few places that have them. Here is the ones I found at Motion Industries.

http://www.motionindustries.com/moti...es%3EOil+Seals

[Sam Mac]

This explains why the seals don't show in the parts list's. Nice that MTD wants you to buy a complete bearing block. Designed by the bean counters for sure. If I had one I'd be redesigning it for sure.

[timbo2]

"I don't have a socket big enough but I will next time."

I'm glad I'm not the only one using old pipe and 1/2 " socket wrench to make a breaker bar the few times I need it.

Nice work!