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#1
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Briggs fuel pump bypass?
Change of plans. I realized it's easier to find a Briggs opposed twin. In fact, there are 2 for sale right now for $100. One runs and the other is for parts. Try finding a Magnum for that.
Anyway, the one has no fuel pump. I really don't want to deal with the crap of the fuel pumps and would really like to have an electric pump. How would I go about bypassing the fuel pump? And yes, I did watch that one video, he did not explain it very well. |
#2
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Well, you gotta have something to do tomorrow. Explain why you don't want to use a factory fuel pump.
My 982 has one. So does my 2072, 1811, heck I think even my 782 has one. Come to think of it there is one on my 2284. Can't say they have ever been a real problem that I have found. Changed a couple of them because they were old enough to vote and it was convenient--but they were still working.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
#3
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You change your plans more than a teenage girl changes her BFF... If the gas tank on what ever machine your are talking about today is higher than the carb you really don't need a fuel pump either....
Hopefully they taught you that in school (gravity) or maybe you missed that section when you were too busy posting hopeful ideas on the net.... |
#4
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Actually you do need a fuel pump on a briggs opposed twin. On one of my previous tractors the vacuum line came off the pump and it wouldn't run, despite the fact that the fuel tank was higher than the carb.
Also on a john deere 317 the fuel tank is above the transmission in the back, way lower than the carb on a horizontal shaft. |
#5
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Apparently you do not know the internal workings of a vacuum diaphragm pump...
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#6
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I know how they work. Thinking about it.. that powr kraft definitely had fuel pump issues. I think that might be why it got fuel in the oil. So, that would mean that the fuel shutoff we put in... is basically useless. We put it so far up the line, can't imagine how much fuel still dumps into the oil.
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#7
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Quote:
I realize it's been about 6 years since you posted this, and you might not even still be here. But I'm curious, did you ever follow through with your electric fuel pump plan? |
#8
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Mudrig is long gone
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#9
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Electric Fuel.Pump On Briggs opposed Twin
He's long gone? Yeah, I figured that might be the case. Six years can be a virtual eternity in the Internet world.
I had hoped to talk about that electric fuel pump idea. So happens I did that same project on my own Briggs Opposed Twin (461707). First is the 'schematic of the major parts. And then the general physical parts layout. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who's done this, about such things ad fuel pressure settings, performance observations, and so on. |
#10
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I'm thinking that most needle valves can withstand #5 pressure.
but it depends on the floats displacement as well as the mechanical advantage between the float pivot and the needle in the seat. Obviously a small float will leak at a lower pressure than if it was bigger. I find a mechanical fuel pump does the job for a lot of years before needing replacement. That said, there are valid reasons where someone might find an electric pump fits the need better than a mechanical system. But with the little dribble of fuel most lawn/garden engines require, a gravity flow will work just fine, if the tank is above the carburetor Now there are those that like to have braggin rights saying they have 120 gallons per minute of flow and #15 pressure on their hotrod motor, that is bored/stroked/ported/polished/balanced yada yada yada. Well you get the picture. |
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