Narrow Frame Hydraulic Add On

mattoney · #1 11-24-2016, 12:20 AM

Hello all,

I purchased a narrow frame hydraulic lift off eBay, with the intent of cleaning it up, putting in new seals, and putting it on my 104 with a tiller. After getting it here, I realized that at some point, someone has left the cylinder partially extended and exposed to the weather. With as rusty and pitted as it is, it's going to need replaced.

Question is, I cannot seem to find anything on how to tear down the cylinder. I have found where other people talk about welded cylinders, but this one isn't welded. I have found the diagrams on Parts Tree and Cub Cadet parts, but they list no Part Numbers, so I can't even look up pictures of parts and know they go in my cylinder.

I have found a good guide for going through the pump, but just nothing on the cylinder. Can someone point me in the right direction please?

Thanks in advance!

J-Mech · #2 11-24-2016, 03:09 AM

I don't know where the closest hydraulic shop in your area is, or I'd give you that direction. Your going to need a new rod, so before you spend a bunch of time tearing it apart, I'd find a place that can make you one.

jaynjeep · #3 11-24-2016, 10:29 AM

I'm not sure how they come apart.. I have a friend that has re sealed two for me so I know they do come apart.. I would have to ask him how he got them apart..

But.... I'm with Jon here.. you are going to need a hydraulic shop to make you a new ram (the rusty rod)... those rusty pits will destroy a new seal in short order.. so you may as well hunt a hydraulic shop and let them do the whole job.. that way it should have a warranty..

Those Hyd lifts are fun little projects.. good luck with it!!

finsruskw · #4 11-24-2016, 10:31 AM

The only thing that holds it together are the fittings on either end.
Remove them, and it WILL come apart, although it will take a little effort.
If you can get the rod to move at all, clamp one end in a vise and start working it back and forth until you get to the outer extreme end of the stroke.
Keep working it back & forth, to the extreme end until something, one end or the other, starts to pull out.
You can then drive the other end out, whichever one it is, w/a drift. I would suggest a hardwood dowel to avoid possible damage to the inside end of the piston or plug end.
CAUTION: DO NOT CLAMP THE TUBE IN THE VISE! You do not want to distort it.

You should be able to get it rebuilt for around $130 or so w/new rod, hoses w/fittings and seals.
I was unable to get the smaller hose of the two and had to settle for the same size for both.
The shop time was the largest part of the bill.
The rod itself was only about $5

darkminion_17 · #5 11-24-2016, 11:17 AM

Who sells that rod for $5.00? is it already threaded and the correct length?

J-Mech · #6 11-24-2016, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Who sells that rod for $5.00? is it already threaded and the correct length?

That's what I wanted to know! Tell us!!

finsruskw · #7 11-24-2016, 11:52 AM

Quote from my receipt from Link Hydraulics in Dubuque, IA.

CR-0500 1/2" chrome rod 8" @.$0.55 $4.40

And no, it's not threaded, that was included in the shop/machine time.
It has to be threaded on each end. It's threaded into the piston end and staked.

The total parts for the rebuild were $28.62+ tx.