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#1
04-27-2020, 11:45 PM
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K241A rebuild
So the motor in my 107 has a broken piston rod. I found the master kit I need for it. Problem is I don't have a micrometer, a valve seat cutter, or any honing tools. I'm wondering if it is possible to do the rebuild by just cleaning everything up really well and hoping that everything is still in spec. I know what the bore and stroke measurements should be. What are the chances that it is out of spec? Has anyone taken shortcuts and Gotten away with it? Or is it just a bad idea?
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#2
04-28-2020, 12:15 AM
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I think it's a bad idea to shortcut on an engine rebuild, but if your going to short cut it ,why buy a kit ,just get a new rod hope that its a standard size crank, pop the piston out,install new rod,make sure rings are orientated properly and put it back in ( need ring compressor ) clean up valves ( I'd at least relapp ) , new head gasket, if oil burning wasn't a problem then it may run awhile , depends ?? If you don't have the tools needed for a engine rebuild it's pretty tough to end up with a good result, you might find someone to do it for a couple hundred bucks if thing aren't to worn out , or you might find a good engine for a reasonable price, good luck either way !
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#3
04-28-2020, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Chances are real good it needs rebuilt. You say you don't have measuring tools, obviously you also lack the experience to do a successful rebuild. The first thing one does is open it up, and understand the damage/wear, measure the crank and cylinder so you can purchase the correct parts. Is it std bore or oversize and how much does it need to be bored/honed to clean it up. What does the crank look like? has it already been turned? can it be saved? Then the valve seats need reconditioned as well as the valves ground or replaced if warped. Are the guides worn and need renewed? I could go on but you get the idea. You have to know what you have before you can do anything. The rod broke for a reason, was it hammering on a worn crank or run out of oil? either way the crank needs attention. How much damage did the rod do? bust the block? break the cam? You had a catastrophic failure, not just using a little oil.
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#4
04-28-2020, 12:54 AM
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DO NOT TAKE SHORTCUTS, you will be disappointed. The wear limit on the crankshaft rod journal is 1.4990 inches from 1.4995 inches, not a lot of wiggle room. The bore and stroke measurements mean nothing when rebuilding. You need some precision measuring equipment. A new bore measures about 3.2515 inches and is out of spec at 3.2540 inches, that's about 0.0035 inches, not a lot.
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128 X 2, 129, 149, 1450 x 2
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#5
04-28-2020, 01:32 AM
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Do it right, or do it twice.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart      
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#7
04-28-2020, 08:39 AM
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Ironman recently posted about a guy on ebay that you can ship your block, piston, rings, crank, and rod to. The price for boring, honing and assembly seemed pretty responsible.
I would not suggest going the route you were thinking of. Chances are you will just destroy the new parts you spent good money on. Here is the link to Ironmans thread https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=56796
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641
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