1811 Transmission/Cover/Hitch Plate Issues/Mods

[Carl_NH]

Have an 1811 S/N 770-769 a late 1988 vintage I think (Mfg Date K2117G) I traded up from my 1250 in Sept 1989. In any event, my 1250 had a tiller that was adapted to the 1811 and the dealer used the same rear plate attached to the transaxle to mount the bits and pieces.

I used this tiller in the early 90's to rototill in our rocky area and the bolts came loose damaging the threads in the bottom of the transaxle. (I no longer use the tiller as I have other tools now) I have replaced the rear gasket 2-3 times using some longer bolts and lots of gasket cement but over time towing attachments these come loose and it starts to seep Hyd fluid.

It appears the bottom outer rear cover bolt holes could be drilled and tapped completely through providing more material to secure the cover - has anyone done this?

My hitch plate (from the 1250) also attaches to the rear transaxle which ultimately is the cause of the leakage today due to towing a Trac Vac so if there are options to adapt a better more rigid hitch setup that would be preferred - I dont know if there is a alternate hitch that bolts to the frame or to the side mounting holes which would alleviate this problem?

The Trac Vac Model 580 tongue weight when loaded is at least 100Lbs so I rigged a chain from the trac vac tongue to the rear hyd lift (also taken from the 1250) to float the hitch which takes the vertical stress off the hitch.

Any ideas and suggestions for mounting the hitch and drilling/tapping the two outer most transmission case holes are appreciated.

Carl

[Matt G.]

The best thing to do would be to get a replacement transmission housing. They should be very cheap if you ask...I've had trouble giving them away.

Then, I'd get the correct Category 0 3-point for your 1811. You won't have any more problems then.

[Carl_NH]

Matt,

Thank you for the reply also if you have a source for the rear transaxles please PM or send the source where these can be obtained.

I am attaching some pics of my current setup. Thanks again,

Carl

Go with a cast iron rear from a 1650 or similar. They are cheap and availible and the added weight is a plus.

Scott

[Merk]

If my memory is working right a 1811 has a aluminum rear end and a sheet metal rear end cover. The aluminum rear had a 5 or 6 bolts holding the hitch on while the 1250 Cub Cadet had a cast iron rear end and a 3 bolts holding the hitch on. Cub Cadet started to go to aluminum rear ends on the later 782s/pre 1811 Cubs.

I can't tell how many bolts you are using. It looks like just the outer bolt on the hitch plate. It aslo looks like the hitch is not at factory height. On a cast iron rear end the center bolt on hitch goes thru the bottom bolt on the trans. Additional height alone with an aluminum rear end can and will put more stress on bolts. I'm not 100% sure...I think Cub Cadet had a different tiller bracket for aluminum rear ends.

Is this the correct Trac Vac frame work? If it is I would modify the Trac Vac frame work so it connects to rear axles and the hitch. Them I would another brace from the Trac Vac frame to an area around the upper 3 point link.

Acually Carl there is a plate that covers the entire rear end and bolts to the frame and NOT the rear alone, you are missing this plate.

Scott

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Cub%...3%20Points.htm

First and second pic from the top, the second is a factory replacement, the top is probably the way to go.

Scott

[Carl_NH]

Murphy - This is perfect and what I need! This will bolt to the frame and be much more stout than my "cobbled" setup..

Once I get away from stressing the rear plate the leaks will cease.

Matt - Thank you for the details on a replacement casting - I dont get leaks until I stress it so once I seal it up again I will probably not replace - yet. Its good to know they are out there tho and the idea of a Cast rear would be taken into consideration at that point.

Merk - You are correct on the AL rear, and I am using the hitch "upside down" with two attachment bolts on the outside as the lower holes are very marginal to secure a hitch. It is also the old 1250 hitch plate.

This was the result of the dealer taking my old tiller and using the brackets from the 1250 but i dont use that anymore - I just need a good hitch.

Regarding the Trac Vac - yes they have two types one that bolts to a frame work on the tractor and one where the motor is mounted on the tongue of the cart - I have the M580 one so the tongue weight is 40+ Lbs empty and even more when full. You can see a picture of the trac vac tongue with the chain around it in the pic -I chain the tongue up to the lift bracket keeping so it floats.

I will definitely get one of the xtreme units.. Thanks a lot everyone!

[squatch]

Originally Posted by murphycc

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Cub%...3%20Points.htm

First and second pic from the top, the second is a factory replacement, the top is probably the way to go.

Scott

Factory plate off of my 1872. It attaches to the frame not the rear:

[Carl_NH]

Squatch,

Your back side looks great :biggrin2.gif:. Now I have something to aspire to!

That setup with the ball and hook looks good and a rugged setup too.

I am going after the parts now and once I get all the bits installed will post a some pics. I have the center lift arm that will interfere with the rear hitch plate although I wont need it anymore so may just remove it.

Probably will take a week or so before I get a the backside worth looking at since you set the bar pretty high Squatch..

Thanks again for all the replies - you guys are great!