1971 149 Moving Forward

[seabee2006]

I am fuzzy on the details but what I remember (8 years ago) is I had a friend of a friend work on the K321 for the 149. It was smoking alot and just not running right. I believe he did rings and some other stuff. When I got it back it ran about 15 min. overheated and seized to a stop. After it cooled it started right up and repeated the seize to a stop. For some reason I did not confront the friend of a friend. I know its hard to understand my logic but I was frustrated. I pulled it into the woods and picked up the 2160 I currently use. Thanks to all your encouraging words I am ready to move forward. I found a manual. I've been searching the threads. I pulled the head the other night and things look promising. Someone told me its possible the rings are wrong? I believe my next step would be to pull the engine and have a small engine shop check it out. I am willing to listen and learn from you all.

[cub1450]

Glad you pulled the 149 out of the woods and gave it a second chance.It seems like to me the rings are getting hot and expands and becomes pressdled in the cylinder from the rings being oversized and after it cools down it shrinks and frees itself .I could be wrong but I think that may be the problem. And I see you have a rats nest behind the engine shroud so that needs to be got out of their to help cool the engine. So good luck on your adventure.

Jed

[seabee2006]

Thanks, Just joining everyone in this forum has been an adventure. Learning as I go. I pulled the motor last night and waiting for my next window of time to take a close look at the piston and rings. I have not tried to start it yet so I don't know how long the critters have been liven in there. Following the threads has been humbling after 1 I read I ran back out and started tagging all my bolts and making notes. On a side note I have not been able to find the Model and serial #s on my 2160, thought they would be under the seat. Any Idea's?

[MWShaw]

It could be the ring gap.

When the rings are in the cylinder, they form an almost complete circle. There is a small gap keeping them from being a full circle. As the engine comes up to running temp, the rings expand from the heat. As they expand, that gap closes. If it closes all the way, and the ends of the rings butt up against each other, there is no room left for expansion.

The rings become forced against the cylinder wall, and cause the piston to stop.

On high performane engines this can cause catastrophic engine failure, because the piston is moving too fast to stop, and the top off the piston will get ripped off.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by seabee2006

On a side note I have not been able to find the Model and serial #s on my 2160, thought they would be under the seat. Any Idea's?

Seebee

It should be on the frame on the left side as you sit on the tractor. Circled in red in the attached pic.

My Dad was in the Seebee's during WW2.

[seabee2006]

Right on with the nameplate location. I retired from the Navy Reserves in 2007. 17 of my 24 years I was a Seabee and I loved every minute of it. Say Hi to your Dad.
The ring senario fits very well, I remember it happened the first time I started it when I got it back. The person who did the rings might have only run it 10 min. I just gave up assuming the motor was bad. I found a motor shop and they said I should be able to check the ring gap myself. Might not happen this weekend. but I will keep an eye on OCC.
Glenn

[seabee2006]

Hey Jed,
I figured I better clean that nest out before I pulled the oil pan and WOW!!! it was worse than I thought, Flywheel is jamed with rust.
Glenn

[David a Calkins]

you may not be in trouble ,first move that nest out ,you have no cooling ,but you know that ,next have a good machinist [mic] the bore and piston ,,check the top of piston ,to see if it was over size ,,the only way to check the end gap is remove the rings and place them in the bore ,but you will take a chance and brake them ,so you can do it this way ,and use a hose clamp .place around piston ,and pull up on clamp ,leaving room to see gap .shouls be in the range of .018 .and the gaps should be 180 degrees apart .from each outher .and not in line with the rist pin .or the rubbing area of the piston .the bore should be in the range of .0045 to .006 .and have the machinist check for taper .i think you will fine your [OK] hope this helps ,David

[seabee2006]

Thanks, David,
The top of my piston says STD, I'm thinking that stands for Standard?
But I will let a machinist take a look. There are plenty of other parts begging for my attention.
Glenn

[johncub7172]

See "Made it home safe" in the Kohler engines section. Here you will find what gets measured, and some great information can be found. I just had mine rebuilt.