My 1977 1250 QL

[justanengineer]

Howdy fellas. After lurking a few weeks and searching/solving what minor issues I could, I thought I would bring my project out in the open as I will likely need assistance and have a few questions. The project in question is a 1977 1250 that has ~400 original hours on it. Admittedly its no spring chicken, but I can tell it led a decently easy life, hopefully without too much abuse, and think the condition was well worth the $250 I paid for it, 44A mower, and the IH front plow I still need to identify. I mowed with it once before the drought began, found several issues which I am still resolving, and am finally at the point (thanks to recent rains) that I need to get it going again to mow the 1.5 acres of lawn surrounding the house I bought not long before the 1250.

Known issues/concerns:

1. Upon 1st oil change (day I bought it) I discovered the only thing holding the 2x oversized oil drain plug in was RTV. Rather than helicoil an already over-sized hole, I tried re-tapping the hole a fine-thread size larger. Unfortunately, despite looking clean/sharp, the new threads did not hold. I should have a replacement oil pan on my doorstep by the end of the week though, so I am no longer concerned with this issue.

2. While looking closely at the pan, I noticed the lower half of both rear ISO mounts is destroyed. Is there supposed to be an upper and lower rubber rear ISO mount, or is this supposed to be one piece of rubber? Thankfully the fronts are both good and solid.

3. Does anybody have any good pics of how the engine side covers are supposed to mount? I have the originals, but they were not installed at the auction I acquired this at. I can see where the larger rear holes mount to the tractor via bolts/wingnuts, but the front/upper bolt holes do not appear to be near any corresponding holes. Also, are these side panels supposed to tuck inside the frame?

4. The local dealer told me to change the trans filter and simply replace any fluid lost out of the hydrostat, rather than change all the hytran due to cost (~$7/qt was quoted). Does this sound right? For some reason this makes my bs meter start pegging.



A "glamor" shot, the day I bought it. The exterior was shiny clean, but underneath it had 35 yrs of grease/oil/grass that has since been cleaned to match the exterior. I have both rear hubcaps, but neither of the fronts, and both side engine covers.



In the garage tonight, getting ready to remove the engine to replace the oil pan. Just need to unbolt the driveshaft and remove the mounting bolts.



Wire harness on right side of tractor. Did IHC use one common harness for these tractors? Mine doesnt have lights, and I am curious if the "pigtailed together" harness is for lights? I may decide to add these later.




I assume the two extra holes in the front is a dealer "customization." The paint on the seat frame and bolts was perfect until I decided to give my 6'4 self a bit of leg room via the standard slots. For those curious, the duct tape isnt mine, and the seat will likely be replaced after the few mechanical issues have been resolved.

More pics and posts to follow as the work continues....

[R Bedell]

2. While looking closely at the pan, I noticed the lower half of both rear ISO mounts is destroyed. Is there supposed to be an upper and lower rubber rear ISO mount, or is this supposed to be one piece of rubber? Thankfully the fronts are both good and solid.

4. The local dealer told me to change the trans filter and simply replace any fluid lost out of the hydrostat, rather than change all the hytran due to cost (~$7/qt was quoted). Does this sound right? For some reason this makes my bs meter start pegging.

You can use whatever fluid you want. Hytran is what is recommended by Cub Cadet for a number of reason. It is less expensive to purchase Hytran at a Case/IH dealer. Take a couple of gallon containers and you can purchase Hytran from a bulk tank.

Did IHC use one common harness for these tractors? Mine doesnt have lights

YES, the QL harnesses were all the same. Lights were optional on the 1250.

[Cubcrazy]

The side panel front holes do not attach to anything. A spring goes between the side panels to hold them in.

[Mr.Goffena]

The two wires that are hooked together look like they are the neutral start wires.

[samiam44]

The side panels are easy to figure out- there is a bolt at the top rear to hold them in place plus a spring which goes between the 2 panels @ front.


Micheal

[cub123]

4. The local dealer told me to change the trans filter and simply replace any fluid lost out of the hydrostat, rather than change all the hytran due to cost (~$7/qt was quoted). Does this sound right? For some reason this makes my bs meter start pegging.


He's right about that as far as normal filter changes. But seem how you don't know how its been treated, I would put fresh non synthetic hy trans and a filter on it.

[SumBum]

Originally Posted by cub123

4. The local dealer told me to change the trans filter and simply replace any fluid lost out of the hydrostat, rather than change all the hytran due to cost (~$7/qt was quoted). Does this sound right? For some reason this makes my bs meter start pegging.

Because it's unknown, I'd pull the cover while it's drained and inspect for damage and clean it out real good with carb cleaner. Might be a good idea to pull the axle housings and clean them out as well. The bearings, seals, and gaskets you will need are pretty cheap.

[ACecil]

Good luck with your 1250.

[samiam44]

I think hytran is about ~$20 a gallon. I would just get 2 gallons since the history of the tractor is unknown. A new gasket for the rear.. drain it and if it looks clean you can top it up and replace the filter every year (or 2).
I would look visually for leaking seals before hand, but they probably are fine.


Michael

[bkw3614]

Nice 1250. Personally, I like the look of a Quietline tractor. I think when they are cleaned up and configured correctly, they are a site to behold in a plow furrow or mowing the estate.

Recently, I bought a 1250, too. I call it my 1250 nightmare. It has given me my share of questions, mostly concerning engine vibration after replacing the motor mounts and making the recommended engine cradle modification. I have yet to find a complete solution.

Good call on the pan. When you have the pan off, please check to see if you have balance gears in the engine. I'd like to know if they are in there. I have no knowledge of this is correct or not, but I believe the general consensus is to remove the balance gears, so that they don't explode through the block at a time most inconvenient.

As for your wiring, the two wires that are jumpered together appear to be for the neutral safety switch. That switch is located near the brake pedal rod, under the tractor. If you can start the tractor without depressing the brake pedal all the way, then those wires most likely need to be connected to the switch. I intend to install lights on my 1250 nightmare. I have the headlights and retainer grommets, and need to find some tail lights. The lights and grommets came from NAPA for less than 20 bucks. When I had the engine out of the tractor, I installed the correct light switch and fuse holder, and made a wiring harness for the lights, to be installed later. I didn't find wiring for optional headlights/taillights when I examined the tractor wiring in place.

As for your motor mounts, I would recommend replacing all of the mounts, so that they are all the same. I am plagued with vibration after replacing my ISO mounts with new OEM mounts. The instructions recommend torquing the mounts to 100 inch pounds, but many shy away from this. The diagram shown in a previous post is the diagram of the OEM mount. What is not shown is the torque specification. When I tightened my mounts, the vibration seemed to be a bit less.

Those side panels are a bit difficult to install; at least mine are! The way that I do it is to match the contour of the frame to the bottom of the side panel, and then slide them into place. The rear hole takes a 1/4 x 20 bolt, stove bolt or thumb screw. The forward holes line up with each other and need to have a spring connected between them, over the muffler box.

Hy-Tran works in these Sundstrand hydrostatic transmissions. That is not to say that other hydro fluid won't work, but we know that Hy-Tran works. I think it is about 14 dollars a gallon, purchased in bulk from a Case-IH dealer. Bring your own containers. You probably can get the filter there too. Cub Cadet, Baldwin, Wix, and Fleet Guard are all good brand names. Carquest and NAPA filters are made by Wix. What I like about Hy-Tran is that it has a moisture trap feature in it. You will see that when the transmission is drained. There will be little white granules in the bottom. Wash them out with Carburetor Cleaner. You can get the rear cover gasket from Case-IH too. It is the same as a Farmall Cub.

Good luck with your repairs. As your tractor is identical to mine, even down to the production year, I am very interested in your repair results.


Brian Wittman