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#1
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Hello
I have a 1045 LTX that is 3 years old. I was mowing last week for a couple hours without issue. I got off the tractor to open a gate and the tractor just shut off and I couldn't turn it back on. Wasn't clicking or even trying to turn over. Back story: This summer I have had to jump the battery using my car several times despite using a trickle charger. Perhaps the battery is no longer holding a charge. So after this happened the other day I tried jumping it again and it kept trying to turn over steadily with wheel on top of engine spinning. It never sounded like it was flooding and there was no clicking sound. It only did this if connected to the car. If i tried starting it without the car, it did nothing at all, no clicking, not attempting to turn over. Was as if there was no battery in it at all and wasn't trying to do anything. Hook it back up to the car and it kept trying. Spark plug looked okay. Thought maybe the battery was just too dead to hold a charge. Got a new one and still doing same thing trying to turn over, this time it is doing so without being hooked up to the car. So obviously the battery is playing a part because with a new battery it is doing what it would do hooked to the car with the old battery but for some reason it just won't turn all the way over. Any thoughts as to what is going on or where I should be looking/what I should be doing? Any help is very much appreciated! thanks eric |
#2
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Solenoid possibly getting weak...
Where are you jumping it? Did you pull a plug to see if you are getting spark? |
#3
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First of all
![]() Ok. The battery going dead could have played a role in the machine dying. It sounds pretty obvious that a new battery helped. Here are some things to keep in mind 1.) The ignition system is a magneto, so it requires NO VOLTAGE to run. The key grounds it to kill the motor. Along with ANY other safety device. (I.E. brake switch, clutch switch, seat switch.....) 2.) This motor has a fuel shut-off solenoid, called the "afterfire solenoid" in the electrical schematic. This DOES require voltage to work. IF, the battery went dead, and it dropped that solenoid, it would die. ALSO, if that solenoid went bad, it will die and will not restart. 3.) There are like a million safety switches that can kill the motor. Here is what I suggest: 1.) Disconnect the "kill" wire from the magneto and see if it will start. If it does: Find the problem in that circuit. If it does not: Hook it back up, and go to #2 2.) Check to see if the fuel solenoid at the carb is getting power. If it is: Check to see that the solenoid is working. If you hold your hand on it and turn on the key, you should feel it "click". 2A.) Another way, is to remove it carefully (It will have a spring) take the plunger out, and reinstall it. Then try to start it again. If it runs, the solenoid is bad. Replace it. If it is not getting power: Test that circuit and find/repair the failure. Cranking issue: 1.) The motor has a compression release, it may be bad. 2.) Check/ clean all power and ground connections. Make sure specifically, that the ones at the battery, starter solenoid, and starter are good. 3.) It is possible the starter is weak, or you didn't buy a large enough battery. They have a horsepower rating on them usually. If you try all this, and still have no luck, or have questions, come back and we'll try to help! ![]() |
#4
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hey jonathan,
thanks for reply. forgive my ignorance on this stuff...while i understand what you are saying, it is a bit over my head. where is the magneto to find the kill switch i should disconnect? and if that as suggested doesn't work where is the fuel solenoid? can you point me to schematics as the manual does not get this in depth? once i find the solenoid if i hold it and it is clicking that means it is getting power correct? thank you so MUCH!!!! eric |
#5
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Ok. Here we go.
Quote:
Here is where the magneto is.... It's #16 magneto.jpg Quote:
carb.jpg Quote:
Quote:
You can find all parts pics on Cub Cadets main page, or you can go to partstree.com. I use parts tree because, on my PC, it loads quicker. I don't suggest you buy from there though, because they tend to be a little higher than cadet. Your welcome! Good luck! ![]() |
#6
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Thank you Jonathan for the VERY thoughtful and detailed response! I am going to take a look now and see what I can find out. I'll let you know!
eric |
#7
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You have to get one for your specific engine. Some auto parts stores con order/keep them. You will need make, model, type, code, serial number from your engine.
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#8
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from the engine itself or the numbers that are stamped on top of the black plastic piece that is in the center of the magneto?
thanks eric |
#9
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i think i found it on the CC web-site. now i just need to be able to find one locally. my lawn will be a jungle if i have to order it and have it shipped! will check the local cub cadet dealer repair shop.
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#10
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Just a couple points. The two bolts that hold the mag to the engine are pointed out in yellow. When you put the new one on make sure you get the clearance between the magnet on the flywheel and the legs of the magneto correct. Don’t know if the instructions will come with it or not. They used to come with the mags for a Briggs.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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battery, engine wont start |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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