IH Cub Cadet 124 Creeper Gear ?

[boxccc]

New Guy On The Block, 1st. Timer: Long story, initial tread. Started charity gardening several years back for church kitchens, food banks, monasterys etc. but the back could not keep up with the walk behind rototillers. Garden now 500' by 100' and I have larger tractors for ground prep (plowing and tilling). I wanted a smaller tiller to cultivate the weeds between rows which I have set at 56". 2 years ago I had no IH Cub Cadets now I have 4...CC 124, (2) 129s and a 1220.

I picked up a CC 124 with a International tiller (1A-U111) and once I got the engine up to snuff and the right tiller belt (1H-487045) it works well except the 1st. gear is too fast for full throttle tilling. The CC 124 has a slot the a Creeper Gear selector handle as well as the decals top and bottom of slot: HI----LO. Shortly after, a close friend gave me his 129 with Hydra drive. It runs beautifully with full throttle yet I can barely creep along in Forward.

I then communicated with a very trusted IH Dealer and subsequent strictly Cub Cadet Dealer and Service and he recommended converting my 124 with a creeper gear since in his opinion the manual tranny worked better with what i wanted to do.

I was able to obtain from him a creeper gear(will provide photos) and its only markings are casting numbers 37692 stamp nos 51 L16.

I have obtained a drive shaft and have modified it according to instructions and a manual from cubcadetcollectors titled "Original-Creeper".

Referring to a parts lest given for the Creeper Gear,(will provide photo attachment), I am concerned that i do not have all of the connectors etc which go between the rear of the creeper assembly and the remaining shaft from the manual tranny.

Anyone have a manual more oriented to a CC 124 and not older models?

[J-Mech]

Looks to me like you just need to put it on. Small gear with the hole in it goes on the input shaft with a roll pin. Then bolt the creeper on and attach the driveshaft, FILL IT WITH OIL!

[cubcadet]

what jonathan said

[drglinski]

Looks good. Difficulty tilling with a hydro? Never had a problem for me.....

[johncub7172]

I'm sure by now, that you understand 4 new cap screws are needed for installment of the creeper to transmission reduction cover plate. I believe the OCC Members have got you covered! I like to wait 2-3 days for the gasket and sealant to set up/cure before I add Hy-Tran fluid. Also from Cub Cadet, is a gear lube for these creeper gear.

Good luck!

[sawdustdad]

As others have said, looks like you have everything but the special short spiral pin to put that little gear on the input shaft of your reduction gear.

The 124 owners manual:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4642


has details that might help. You'll need the gasket between the creeper gear box and the reduction gear housing and four grade 5 (or grade 8) 3/8-16 (three-quarters or one inch long-not sure which) cap screws.

sponsors of this forum have the parts you need.

[boxccc]

J.Mech& others with your reply s. As I started this project , I only had the one manual (Original_Creeper_02 etc) to guide me as well as the very revered IH-Cub Dealer (over 40 years servicing NW Ohio). The manual info did not match what the underside of my 124 looks like and the Cub dealer thought I could reach the entire mechanism through a "top plate" easily removed. Also a Cub parts man , who helped me recondition the drive shaft to accommodate the Creeper Gear Box by cutting the OEM shaft at the factory mark, thought it was easy to reassemble the components from underneath as i had removed the original shaft.

Problem: Too many cross bars in the way for the Creeper Gear Box to be attached to the tranny (as I will indicate with photos).

?solution#1. According to the GSS-1398 manual on ppgs 2-20, Splitting and Recoupling...the tractor. Looks complex, but is there an easier way?

?solution#2. Is it possible to accomplish the reassembly and attachment of the drive shaft by simply removing the "Implement lift handle cross-shaft." Has any one tried this instead of "Splitting the tractor"?

Additional question: The small gear that attaches to the tranny shaft and fits into the gear box has the Spiral Pin hole eccentrically placed. does the long or short portion fit to the tranny shaft?

[cubfixer]

You are going to have to split the tractor. Support the tractor rear. Remove the roll pin in front of the tranny, remove the three bolts on each side of the tranny, and the rear end can be rolled out from under the tractor. You are going to have to remove the drive shaft to shorten it. Easy when you split the tractor. When the tractor is split, you can install the creeper gear easily.

Good luck!

[boxccc]

Let me tell you the rest of the story: As I mentioned in my other THREADS (boxccc), I did not have a good manual to start the Creeper gear project.I was not aware of the ability of SPLITTING the tractor to gain access. I was able to get the drive shaft disconnected from the engine and the tranny by using the small openings for the creeper gear selector handle and hammered out the Spiral Pins to disconnect the drive shaft from the tranny. From underneath the tractor with disassemble of the implement lift bar and lift handle support, I was then able to maneuver the drive shaft and clutch mechanism out from the compartment once the 4 bolts where released from the engine pulley.

Now not being totally comfortable with shortening the drive shaft to accommodate the creeper gear/box, I was able to locate a nearby CC salvage parts location to obtain shaft and clutch assembly without destroying my original. (meaning I could put things back together if they didn't work). I was fortunate that he could cut down the shaft he had (very precisely, I might add) and reassemble it to the loading spring, teaser spring, and ?cup (missing from mine) and the clutch plate.

I then installed the Creeper gear/box etc carefully. You should note that the shorter portion of the gear attaches to the tranny shaft and the slightly longer portion fits into the gear box mechanism. Note that it has a bushing that fits over the shaft. That small gear can fit either way but only one is correct.I was then able to install the drive shaft from the engine and it connected precisely with the creeper input shaft and the coupler fit exactly and the spiral pin holes lined up. I then drove the pins without difficulty and finally bolting the clutch drive plate to the engine pulley with the 4 bolts. I should mention that every step of the way I tested to make sure that the creeper gear selector would properly move and lock in either the HI or LO.

After reassembly of all the essentials, I lowered the tractor and gave it a test start. Engine started without problem but I could not get the tranny to engage....Oh, Oh...after through inspection and reference to the manual (which I should have done a bit more thoroughly) AND noting that an extra drive plate was sitting on the bench...I sadly realized me and my part supplier had not fixed the forward drive plate to the shaft...

Well the question now is should I do the disassemble from the bottom like I did the first time or should I now SPLIT THE TRACTOR and start all over? This is rather embarrassing since in my former life (before retirement) as i worked I would always check my work, then check it a second time then check it a third time...then for the hell of it checked it again, before closing the job.

I apologize for sharing this mis-adventure but possibly someone will gain from it...

DEDEMau from DinkyDau...RVN...DaNang

New problems have developed since what I posted above:

1. The clutch plates were properly installed, why I thought one was missing was an oversight caused by working too late on several projects.

2. Working from the bottom of the tractor as previously described, I manually turned the engine at the clutch and noted that it turned the drive shaft up to the couple r which is fixed to the input shaft of the creeper gear box by the proper Spirol pins. I then put the tranny into 1st. gear and the creeper gear into high and manually turned the engine meeting some resistance. At this point I was not sure what I was dealing with, so I did uncouple the coupler and removed the Creeper gear box and it easily dropped out of the bottom.

3. The sliding gear that fixes to the tranny input shaft(reduction gear) was solidly fixed with the proper length Spirol (spiral) pin. Now when turning this gear attached to the tranny input shaft, I would meet very little resistance, regardless as to what gear I had selected. I then elevated the tractor rear to free the wheels and inspite of what rotation direction, the input shaft(gear attached) would not turn. If I locked the wheels down again and manually turned the input shaft, I met little if any resistance.

Therefore, is my problem in the tranny and if so where and how do I get to it with a CC 124?

My haunting question is: How did I take a perfectly good running tractor and screwed it up by removing a perfectly good drive shaft and replacing it with a Creeper gear, result in the loss of any motion, forward or reverse? Could driving out the original Spiral pins have done damage to a gear in the tranny? I may have to go back to my walk behind tillers.

I know its late but I ain't about to give up ....My wife wonders if the forum is going to run out of space with my ongoing problem.

[OldAndInTheWay]

I have a 124 that came with a creeper. It is really geared down with creeper engaged! Only use I have for it is when maneuvering in really tight spaced. Been informed to not consider it for trying to increase pulling power but instead what you need it for, to slow the tractor down to let the tiller/snow thrower work best.

Great tractor!

Mowed some grass this weekend that was up to the hood and it did great! Just took it slow.