1450 Hydro Problem-Wont move after seal replacement

marcooooos · #1 05-08-2014, 01:36 PM

Hi all,

I'm a long time lurker of this site, it has saved me several times! Thanks to everyone for this great resource.

Now with my issue, because I am at a loss, the grass is getting long, and Im ready to sell this thing out of frustration. I have a 1970's 1450 that was working great, but it had a hydro leak from the small circular cork gasket that connects the charge pump to the rear end. I removed the rear end and took off the charge pump and replaced both seals on the charge pump, put it back together, no luck. Thing wouldn't move. Did this a second time to ensure I put everything back together correctly, the tractor still won't move.

The tractor has a new filter with the correct fluid and level. I have (per my local cub cadet dealer) placed the tractor on Jack stands and ran it to try and charge the system. It is pumping fluid, and I can hear the charge pump make a small noise in forward and reverse, but the wheels do not spin. I feel like I am missing something minor…but I can't figure it out.

Any suggestions would be very helpful!

J-Mech · #2 05-08-2014, 01:51 PM

Did you try rolling it while trying to move it? Pretty common problem. Put the tractor on the ground, start it, put the hydro just a little forward and roll the tractor. Usually only have to roll it a few inches.

Jkainz · #3 05-08-2014, 04:16 PM

The charge pump cover can rotate 180 degrees, this will change the input rotation, if you installed the pump cover as said above, this may be the problem. If this happened, you need to rotate 180 degrees to match your engine rotation. Good luck.

sawdustdad · #4 05-08-2014, 04:54 PM

As I understand the original question, he didn't really remove the charge pump, he removed the entire hydro unit. Assuming that to be the case, priming the charge pump may be necessary. I think that's what Jonathan's suggestion to roll the unit does. I've actually removed a relief valve and filled the hydro with fluid before.

To the OP--the charge pump is actually the small (like 3 inch by 1.5 inch) housing that the drive shaft connects to. It in turn is bolted to the hydrostat. The charge pump provides fluid to the hydrostat's internal pump which requires a net positive suction head (requires fluid to be provided to it under pressure).

When you serviced the unit, you removed the entire hydrostat and replaced the cork gasket. What are the "both seals" that you replaced?

mmzullo · #5 05-08-2014, 07:21 PM

are the relief cable nipples up or down.. maybe they are in the release post ion and not creating pressure. Do you have a hydro lift? Does that work

marcooooos · #6 05-08-2014, 08:09 PM

J-Mech: I did try rolling it, that did not work.

JKainz: Im not quite sure I understand the rotation you are talking about. I did split the transmission housing and replaced that gasket. The pins lined up with the hydraulic motor plates when they were put back together. Those plates weren't even removed. Forgive me, this is all new to me!

sawdustdad: I split the transmission housing when the whole assembly was removed and replaced the cork gasket as originally stated, and the gasket for the transmission housing center.

mmzullo: The hydraulic lift does not work at the moment. The link chain was broken when I got the tractor, and I am yet to fix it. But the lift assembly did work when I rigged it to manually check it last year. I did notice just now that the hydraulic lift cylinder is extended? Could this be part of the problem? And by "relief cables" do you mean the push button relief valves under the tunnel cover? Those are both up and functioning. I cleaned them a few days ago as well just to be sure.

Thank you guys, I feel like you are all leading me in the correct direction to figuring this out. This is all new to me, frustrating, but fun as hell. I really am beginning to gain an appreciation for the quality of this tractor. Im just hoping its not so messed up that I won't be able to use it ever again!