Rebuild tidbits and removing camshaft

[NCDiesel]

I am rebuilding my K301 from my 1966 model 123 and I was SUPER excited to see how clean it was and the fact it is a standard untouched engine. Very minimal ridge and no scoring: Still has original standard piston. Cylinder bore and piston measurements are all bad by a little. However between ring wear and cylinder wear, ring gap was WAY off. Probably the reason for the blow-by and lack of power that caused me to rebuild.

Interestingly, everything else is fine. Crank pin measurement, wrist pin, etc.

However, I now need to tear down the governor and the camshaft so I can get the block cleaned and machined. Both of these looked like press-out jobs. However, my initial attempt created no movement and seemed to require more force than I felt comfortable applying. Neither the manual or my inspection indicated the presence of rings or clips that would prevent the press-out. The manual was pretty clear in which direction it should be pressed out, so I think I have that part right.

Am I going about this all wrong? Or am I just being to cautious and should go ahead and really lean into the press?


Also, any tips or tricks ?

Thanks in advance!

[J-Mech]

I've never had to press a cam pin out. Usually a hammer and a punch and a couple quick smacks and the cam pin comes out. You sure your doing it right? You took the rear bearing plate and the crank out already right?

[NCDiesel]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I've never had to press a cam pin out. Usually a hammer and a punch and a couple quick smacks and the cam pin comes out. You sure your doing it right? You took the rear bearing plate and the crank out already right?

Thanks for the response. I have removed the crank and the bearing plate. I did try the hammer smack first and when that didn't work I went to the press. The cup plug at the end of the pin that must be driven out with the pin must be the culprit is all I can guess. It must be in there real good. I'll keep working it then. Sounds like I am on the right track.


Thanks again!

[J-Mech]

What cup plug? There isn't a plug.... not supposed to be anyway.

[NCDiesel]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

What cup plug? There isn't a plug.... not supposed to be anyway.

Hey,

I got that from the manual, but actually kind of noticed myself before that. The end of the camshaft pin on the bearing side was different than end of the pin on the PTO side. That difference I later surmised was that plug mentioned in the manual:

[J-Mech]

Got me..... I agree that's what the book does say. I've not seen it. There is an updated cam pin. Maybe you have the old style? Parts book shows no plug. I hollered at dvogtvpe. Maybe he can shed some light.

Like I said, I always just drive it out.

[NCDiesel]

Started reassembly today, and ran across a couple of things I wanted to bounce off you folks. This is a K301(Serial C052589, SPEC 4759B) from a '67 model 123:

The cross shaft arm wiggles (see video). So I set the rivet tighter with a pin punch and that cured it. I assume this was a reasonable repair or is that rivet brittle and I might want to reconsider and replace it?

Cross shaft governor bushing nut does not have a washer - right? I don't recall one, don't see one in the diagrams but it doesn't "seem" right to shoulder right against the block.

Governor gear has a lot of back and forth on its pin. The stop pin does stop it, but seems excessive. I assume the direction of rotation of the camshaft gear keeps it up against the thrust washer and that outward travel I am seeing toward the cross shaft arm won't happen "in real life". Again, I don't recall removing anything that would help keep the governor gear from traveling along its shaft all the way out against the stop pin.

Turn your volume down before you click - I was listening to the radio (-:

http://www.atis.net/~yostsw/cross-shaft.MOV

[dvogtvpe]

replace the cross shaft
no washer
it will have allot of play till you put the carb on and adjust the governor to the carb

[Merk]

Originally Posted by NCDiesel

Started reassembly today, and ran across a couple of things I wanted to bounce off you folks. This is a K301(Serial C052589, SPEC 4759B) from a '67 model 123:

The cross shaft arm wiggles (see video). So I set the rivet tighter with a pin punch and that cured it. I assume this was a reasonable repair or is that rivet brittle and I might want to reconsider and replace it?

Cross shaft governor bushing nut does not have a washer - right? I don't recall one, don't see one in the diagrams but it doesn't "seem" right to shoulder right against the block.

Governor gear has a lot of back and forth on its pin. The stop pin does stop it, but seems excessive. I assume the direction of rotation of the camshaft gear keeps it up against the thrust washer and that outward travel I am seeing toward the cross shaft arm won't happen "in real life". Again, I don't recall removing anything that would help keep the governor gear from traveling along its shaft all the way out against the stop pin.

Turn your volume down before you click - I was listening to the radio (-:

http://www.atis.net/~yostsw/cross-shaft.MOV

I usually weld the governor shaft instead of using a punch.

I would replace the governor if it was my engine. You can see the point where governor wore on the governor shaft.

[NCDiesel]

Quick question on the cross-shaft: I went to order one and found all available cross-shafts are the newer style with the spacer. Mine is older with a cir-clip to hold it in place and no spacer. Are these interchangeable?

Thanks for the replies!